,
Making the lines themselves turned out to be harder than we initially planned, a discovery we didn’t make until after the local refuse company had taken our old lines away. The primary issue here was all of the fittings on our car are metric, but finding a metric brake line T is almost impossible to do without spending a fortune at a dealer, or ordering by mail. After a quick game of guess and check, we arrived at a combination of parts that has proven safe and leak free for a number of years and track events now – after some initial re-tightening and re-flaring.
Our Chinese weapons of choice. Flaring kit from our favorite one-time use tool warehouse, Harbor Freight.
 |
| You can buy straight stainless brake lines with metric fittings and flared ends from your local parts supplier. |
The lines themselves are 3/16” stainless lines from your local auto parts store, with 10 – 1.0mm inverted flare fittings. In order to make them work together, we simply flared the line out a little farther to match the stock metric fittings. For the junctions that split the feeds to each caliper, we used an Earl’s 3-way -3AN T, and flared the lines to accept Earl’s -3AN compression collars and ferrules.
 |
| Nothing special here, just a small pipe cutter. Take your time and let the tool do the work. Place the brake line in the groove against the blade, turn the adjustment handle to put a little bit of pressure on the line, and spin the tool around the brake line a couple times. Give the adjuster a quarter turn and spin again, repeat until the blade goes all the way through the brake line. |
