The bushings come in a CNC-machined billet housing that is hard anodized for corrosion resistance. It is a very high-quality part that is very easy to install, with no pressing or anything needed.
The front bushings are also made of hard 90-durometer polyurethane. In our opinion, these are not absolutely needed if your objective is just to mostly reduce tire wear. We wanted the most performance and the least compliance so we opted to change both front and rear bushings.
The inner bushing sleeve is thick zinc-plated steel for rust resistance. The large diameter of the sleeve means that the urethane part of the bushing can be thin for less compliance.
The bushings have slots on the thrust surfaces and are knurled on the inside to better retain grease to eliminate squeaking.
This is the culprit of all of our woes, the stock rear bushing is super soft rubber and filled with fluid. Lexas probably did this to make for a smooth ride as this is a luxury brand. We don’t like an inch of toe-out under braking and cornering though. The bushing is so soft that it deflects a lot even with normal driving.
4 comments
Do they have one that adds positive caster too for the XE30?
I have a JCE10 and have the Figs press in bushings that also add some caster. Not much, but every bit helps.
I think so but I didnt feel that the car needed it.
This is a must do for anyone with this chassis. Seems this is a common problem for a lot of cars however. I’ve replaced these across many unrelated cars eg MINI, Alfa, IS-F etc. I am not sure why OEMs opt for such a soft rear LCA bushing that never lasts. PS Its the first time I’ve seen “Lexas”.
That video speaks volumes, showing the deflection an d movement of the factory bushing. Yuck.
Even Subaru’s and Ford’s Focus line benefit from those bushings from various vendors like whiteline or powerflex. I’m sure many other platforms also use a similar style bushing.