,

However a few days later at the dyno, things went a bit…worse. We used very thin wall tubing for our crossmember and it did not agree with the torque loads going through it. The tube buckled at full throttle and shot the whole diff towards the front of the car. This took out the two rear tubes (the lower and upper tubes had a vertical brace which crushed the lower tube), as well as the forward lower tube in the rear box. Before all hell broke loose, we made 65 horsepower at just under 11,000 RPM and 35 lb-ft of torque at 6000 RPM. Mind you, this was with a prototype intake and was not a final tune. Redline for this engine was set at 14,500. Keep the motor over 6 grand and it pulls hard.

This is the lower tube after being cut out of the car. You can see just how much this got mangled in the diff mount failure. If you read our last installment, you’ll remember the swaybar also goes through this tube. The swaybar actually prevented further damage as it stopped the engine mounts from puncturing the tube. Had it failed completely, the diff would have slammed into the back of the engine! This would have destroyed the diff case, sprocket, and probably done a number on the engine itself, which would have ended our year. Instead, we only had to replace three frame tubes, the swaybar, and the chain. Sometimes, we amaze even ourselves with our genius.

To make matters worse, we had an appointment with a powder coater to paint our frame and suspension three days after the rear end failure. AND our TIG welder had begun to puke coolant everywhere and was sent out for repair the day before the tube failure. We fabbed up repair parts and tack welded them in place with a MIG welder.

