Project 718 Cayman T: Part 12 – E-Motion Suspension Components and Track Update

These are the calculated mass airflow values from the Accessport; I don’t quite understand how the Porsche ECU calculates this value as it seem to be about 1/3 low compared to where I expect them to be. Anyway… The logs were all taken at slightly different conditions, but the trends track with the boost levels. The Protune is a chunk higher mass airflow more than the Base tune which correlates with the boost pressure difference. The RENNEN hampered by 91 oct is in between the two. Then the higher flow wheels of the RENNEN take off and keep on flowing. The RENNEN passes the Protune at about 6500 rpms and maxes at ~170 g/s. The Protune maxes at ~153 g/s and the Base flows only 120 g/s. So the RENNEN on 91 octane was flowing about 11% and 42% more respectively. I threw in the COBB off-the-shelf 91 octane tune for reference and you can see it has a lot of unevenness with it.

The ECU has some engine model which calculates an actual torque value that the engine is producing. The lines are more squiggly when the ECU applies some timing correction which reduces torque. The stock turbo on both the Base and Protune only hold the torque flat until about 6000 rpms after which the torque drops towards redline. The RENNEN turbo however, the torque stays basically flat all the way to 7500 rpm; a flat torque curve to redline was a goal of mine for this build. Notice this torque line is also quite smooth and this was due to zero timing correction on this pull. So, it feels like a high flowing NA engine where the torque stays flat and the horsepower keeps on climbing all the way to redline. For me personally, this type of torque curve is easiest for me to modulate at the limit in the twisties. Maybe it’s just from many years of driving and riding the S2000 and CBR 600RR.

Thoughts of water injection have been dancing in my mind to better take advantage of the RENNEN turbocharger. I could keep on using the race gas concentrate, but the coating of orange manganese all over everything the exhaust flow touches makes me think it’s not great for the long term durability of the O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Anyway, the RENNEN on 91 octane is holding about 330 lb-ft of torque at redline. With 93 octane, I’d guesstimate it would hold about 360 lb-ft of torque at redline, which would be a big chunk more power. The Protune is at about 310 lb-ft and the Base at 255 lb-ft on 93 octane with the differences being about 7% and 30% respectively to the RENNEN on 91 octane.

I used my homebrew dyno calculator as Virtual Dyno was giving me some funky results. I also threw in my S2000 for fun. Base tune, 93 oct = blue line, Protune, 93 oct = green line, RENNEN, 91 oct = purple, S2000, 91 oct = aqua. Like the boost, MAF, and torque values from the COBB Accessport, the RENNEN on 91 octane doesn’t overtake the stock turbo on 93 octane until the top end. Why do the torque curve shapes of my calculated torque at the wheel differ from the ECU engine model calculated torque? For everything that spins on a car, the friction goes up exponentially. So while the calculated engine torque is staying relatively constant with engine speed, the spinning friction of everything (bearings, axles, etc) is increasing exponentially with increasing speed. That’s all just a half-baked, semi-educated guess.

The stock turbo makes peak power at about 6500 rpm and drops from there. With the RENNEN (purple), the power curve just keeps on increasing. At redline of 7500 rpm, the RENNEN on 91 octane is making roughly 20% more power than the stock turbo Protune on 93 octane and 30% more than Base, 310hp vs 255hp vs 230hp at the wheel based on my rough calcs. And this is through the stock cat and exhaust aside from my custom X-pipe tip. I bet 93 octane would allow the RENNEN to make around another 25whp over 91 octane and shift the whole curve up to where the stock turbo Protune on 93 sits. Did I mention water injection has been bouncing around my head? Also, my old S2000 setup made some good power, but it did have the advantage of about another 160cc of displacement. It made about 370hp on Church’s dyno which I always took to read crank power. My calcs ballpark the S2000 at 325 hp at the wheel. 370 hp * 85% is 320 hp, so my calcs are in the ballpark.

11 comments

    1. I’m planning on 19″ wheels and RE-71s (245/275 vs current 235/265) after I wear out these tires. Save a little mass. With the stock springs, I don’t think they can handle that much more grip.

  1. The rear toe arms on your car are the non-GT4 Tarett ones. They’re just a different length than the GT4 ones due to different subframe and hubs. Your front tie rods look like Emotion, slightly different design.

    Just did a very similar setup on my T with Dundon front tension arms (shims as well) and Tarett control arms. Curious how Emotion got the factory rear tension arms to work the their puck, which only has a center hole. I had to use the eccentric hole due to the factory tension arm not having enough machined off the LCA mount to avoid interfering with the edge of the puck in the center position. Wonder if they just machined it further out to fit. Trying to avoid either throwing off the toe curve with the eccentric or losing the T brake duct by going to an aftermarket rear tension arms.

    Also didnt realize that the narrow 991 GT3 style LCA inners worked on our cars.

    Cheers – always enjoy hearing about your project

    1. I added some pictures for you and the parts list for the car. The front tie rods are E-motion parts. They don’t make their own rear toe links because there’s no real reason too with the various options already available. I had bought TPC rear toe links for the 718 Cayman, but they didn’t fit as the E-motion setup required GT4 compatible parts. So E-motion ordered up what I believe are the Tarrett parts.

      1. Thanks so much for the photos! Finally got the car back together (didn’t realize that all the subframe bolts for the front sway bar were torque to yield, so took a bit to get new ones).

        Seeing the sharpie mark on your trailing arm really helped. That was marking how far out they had to remove material from the inside of the flange, which was machined for the narrow metal interface on the rubber bushing vs the full width on the aftermarket solid pucks. Took a Dremel with a fine sanding bit and got a pretty nice result.

  2. I had the pleasure of driving Khiem’s 718 at Streets of Willow CW (thanks Khiem!). Although I have limited seat time in Porsches, I agree with his comments on it being a well balanced setup for both track and street use. I’m excited to see the ride difference with the E-Motion Engineering spherical bearings and links installed! Any plans on increasing spring or roll bar stiffness? Looking forward to another track day soon!

  3. Hi Khiem,
    Curious if you are considering upgraded Anti-Sway bars for this project or not. I have a GTS that came with single hole non adjustable bars and considering a second hand set from a GT4 that have three holes so I can adjust the bias front or rear. Still working on how thick my current ones are vs the GT4 bar.

    Good job on the project so far, I love the tech and reading all of the articles. Looking forward to the next installment
    Jeremy

    1. I’m content with factory bars. I would typically use adjustable bars to tweak the handling balance, but I can do that effectively with the DSC.

  4. Update: on my GTS I have now installed a set of used GT4 swaybars.
    On the track I used to have to wait for the car to take a set into the corner, now it can just turn.

    Still playing with the multiple holes of adjustment and feeling how the balance changes front to rear.

    The front for our non GT4 cars require a shorter end link, the rears links work as they are.

    I also have the DSC but don’t yet know how to go about making these changes as the DSC is based on velocity tables.

    1. Thanks for the update! You can adjust the low speed rebound settings in the DSC to tweak the handling balance.

      Agree on the stock suspension, especially in normal mode, needing to wait for the car to take a set. This is really evident in a slalom. I’m content enough with my DSC tuning for sport mode in that regard.

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