On the right side where the cap is, the radiator mounts onto a stud coming from the frame, or it’s supposed to. Now it’s zip-tied slightly farther forward and all is well again. There’s even still ample front tire clearance.
If you remember from the first part of this project, all this bike ever had was a tank, seat and nose fairing, all of which damaged in one way or another. The nose fairing was cracked from the corner to where the headlight would fit. I stitched it with zip ties. It’s embarrassing. The seat unit is just scuffed and ugly. I taped over where the headlights and taillights used to reside and now she’s ready to roll for the first time.
I arrived at the track when it opens at 7a. I do this knowing we won’t hit the track till twenty past nine. It gives time to set up properly, stretch, hydrate more, and give the bike a last once over. Setting out for the first session the Ducati feels great. Power is wonderfully linear, clicking up through gearbox hearing the thunderous sound of the Termignoni exhaust chase me as I enter the back straight.
6 comments
Great article!
Thanks Matt! More coming soon!
Love it! Man… you have a 675 track bike too?! I’ve been eye balling the Street Triple to replace my 600RR for the street bike, but I haven’t convinced my wife to let me keep the 600RR too for a track bike. I just know I can’t sell the 600RR before picking up a new bike or there will be 0 bikes in the garage and it’ll stay that way, ha!
In my previous job,, I learned the hard way about o-ring material and compatibility with different types of fluids. Even different types of oils. Who knew that one type of oil would react differently than another type of oil?
I found this site for material compatibility with all sorts of fluids:
https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-chemical-compatibility-chart.htm
Most generic o-rings are EPDM. Which is probably what you have. I’d recommend stepping up to at least NBR (nitrile). FKM (Viton) is the baller stuff which is typically easy to get.
I can’t recommend the street triple enough. It’s arguably more fun even on the track than a fully faired machine depending on the track. The first generation ‘R’ models are the absolute jam, and they’ve made basically the same bike for so long that they’re dirty cheap on the used market.
The fuel pump o-ring was a real bummer. I ended up sourcing Viton replacements from McMasterCarr. They’re much less susceptible to ballooning up after seeing fuel. Newer Ducati’s use Viton, but they’re something like $50ea. Sourcing them 3rd party saves something like 70% of the cost.
Im nearly two years late, but I am wondering if you still have the bike and if so, how it is running. Ive got a 998 and your radiator solution is intriguing. Im so tired of how hot my 998 runs. It really is my ONLY complaint of an otherwise awesome machine. Any updated info especially concerning the radiator would be appreciated. thanks.
Hi Will, I most certainly still have the bike. I’m not sure this one will ever leave. I still ride and race it regularly. I have however changed the radiator setup again. So as you see here some compromises were made to use a 999 radiator. Ultimately I had some failing very old radiator hoses and came across a screaming deal on a set for a 998 style radiator.
So despite the work I did to get the 999 rad to fit, I reinstalled the cleaned 998 radiator, Samco hoses and pressurizer tank. Now of course I’m left with a RH air intake that I’ve modified to make room for a radiator cap that I no longer use, so I ultimately need to replace that with another unmodified unit.
All that being said the radiators are functionally the same, same basic size, capacity etc. I don’t see a huge benefit either way. I’d say the stock setup is a bit easier because of fitment.
In your case the heat complaint just leads to more questions. Is the bike overheating or are you just not enjoying a 200*F Vtwin right under your balls at stop lights?