Project E36 323is: Keeping The S52 Cool With CSF, Pelican Parts, SPAL and HPS

,

We used SPAL’s included push through mounting rods to mount the fan to our CSF radiator. You push the plastic mounting rods through the radiator and secure them with the supplied fasteners which work much like zip-ties.
Once secured all you do is cut off the excess and you are good to go.  
With the fan secured we dropped in our CSF/SPAL combo just like it was from the factory. The HPS hoses were also perfectly formed and attached to our new CSF radiator without any issues.  
…and here’s where the “factory” fit needed a little massaging to get us to the finish. The OEM fan shroud needed a little cutting due to the new Spal fan.
The EWP Stewart Components High-Performance Water Pump was installed into our S52 during the engine build process.

Using the “while we’re in there” MotoIQ mantra, we installed a “fan delete kit” which includes an 80* thermostat and a low temp coolant switch to activate the auxiliary fan circuit earlier. The auxilary fan will now be our primary fan source.

The new SPAL fan was wired to a switch in the cabin to activate only when desired. The primary reasoning for this was for after on track usage we wanted to be able to turn the fan on/keep the fan on for cooling purposes.

When running without the SPAL fan activated there were no heating problems while using the AC, even in the heat of Southern California or on our cross country trip from CA to OH. It was nice to know though that if the temperature needle ever crept past our comfort zone  there was an option to turn on the SPAL fan.

The next installment of Project E36 will cover the new SPEC clutch along with the dyno numbers everyone has been waiting for from our new S52.

 

Sources

CSF Radiator

Pelican Parts

HPS Silicone Hoses

SPAL

8 comments

    1. This post is relatively new. I remember reading the rest a long time ago. I’m guessing we need to wait a bit longer for the next update.

    1. Pure Performance is actually no longer in business, but an engine rebuild done properly should cost you around $4,000 for machining and assembly, plus parts.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*
*