|The first step is to remove all the staples from the stock seat, then peel off the cover and foam and clean the pan. I used a light coat of 3M 77 spray adhesive around the edges to hold the new foam to the pan, taking care that the front was tucked into the pockets and it was positioned evenly all around.|
|Guts Racing's directions are helpful, so read them, but this is far from idiot-proof. Start with the front, wrapping the cover over the foam and pan. Use spray adhesive to hold the edges of the cover in place on the bottom of the seat pan initially, then staples to lock it down once you get it perfect. Go slowly and carefully, check that everything is even and straight, pulled tight enough to eliminate wrinkles, but not putting excess tension on anything. The angle of the transition from blue to black will make it really obvious if the cover isn't centered. You can always pull staples out and try again, but it's better to get it right the first time. There's plenty of excess material to pull on. Here, I'm starting to trim it after the sides have been done from the front to the middle.|
|The rear is all buttoned up, edges glued down and excess material trimmed.|
|Guts Racing Competition Style seat covers include ballistic nylon on the sides for wear resistance when a rider's knees hug the tank. The rest is Guts' gripper material, which does a great job of keeping you from sliding. Guts says the gripper material is fade and mildew resistant, but I garage the bike in a dry climate and don't expect to test either claim. Black with blue accent matches Husqvarna colors. An HDPE washer was cut out of a milk jug to keep the Dzuz hold-down from cutting the cover.|
You may have seen the right-side subframe gussets in the article on Cardboard Aided Design – CAD. If not, go there and read it. We'll wait.
|Here's a reminder if you already read that story. The forged fingers cantilevered from the back of the subframe tend to break when shaken long enough, so I had gussets welded above and below to reinforce them.|