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Seam sealer and sound deadening expand and contract a lot more than metal does and this could promote rust, especially now that our car would be exposed to more moisture since it no longer has its windows and interior. We went ahead and stripped it all off and painted the bare metal underneath. We used a variety of tools to accomplish this, but the one you absolutely cannot be without is a 4” angle grinder and the largest wire wheel you can fit on it. We purchased both from our local Harbor Freight for less than $30! Take your time and work your way around the entire car. We started from the front to the back, and removed every spot of sealer and tar we could find.
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| This is a rigorous and messy job, so be sure to wear proper skin, eye and ear protection. |
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| Now you get to vacuum the mess you made! |
Get as much of the debris out of the car as possible with a shopvac and wash down the inside of the car with a tough cleaning agent – preferably one with ammonia. Check your work and grind, vacuum and wash as necessary. Make sure to remove the drain plugs inside the car and use a wet/dry vacuum to speed up the draining/drying process. Parking the car on a steep driveway or jacking up the front – securely of course – helps with draining and puts the water in one spot for easy removal with a shop vacuum.
Once the car is dry, wipe down all surfaces with mineral spirits and paper shop towels to remove any really stubborn contaminants. Red or colored shop rags are not recommended because they bleed. Make sure to take your time during the preparation stage; any mistakes here will be easily visible after the color coat goes on.
