Next, we have to slide the carriage bolts and backing plates into the frame rails. Curt provides some chicken wire to do this. There is a gap on the inside of the frame rail in front of the cross member that’s just big enough to squeeze these two parts into. Then just fish them through with the wire. All of the nuts and bolts are zinc plated Grade-8. The backing plates are galvanized steel.
Once the bolts are in place, it is very important to make sure you don’t accidentally knock them back into the frame rails. Fishing them back out would be a nightmare that should be avoided at all costs.
The Curt hitch installed perfectly and looks great. Yeah there’s a giant metal bar cluttering up the back of our VX’s bumper now, but at least we have the peace of mind that our hitch won’t fail when we tow. The hitch was easy to install, only taking a few hours. You do need to buy your own receiver as the kit does not come with one. We picked up a 2” drop receiver with a 2” ball, putting the hitch at the perfect towing height for most trailers. On stock VXs, a flat receiver is fine, but with the 3” lift kit we installed last time around, a small amount of drop isn’t a bad idea.
Now a hitch isn’t the only thing we need. We also need to install a wiring regulator so our trailer lights will work. Curt also supplied us with a wiring adapter to plug into the trailer.
Some cars and SUVs have a separate connector to allow easy installation of trailer wiring. Our old CR-V had a plug behind the rear speaker that made wiring lights a 2-minute job. The VX does not have such a provision in its harness and thus requires splicing into the harness using this box. All the wires are clearly labeled and the instructions are very straightforward.
First, we had to find a place to mount the box. There is a perfect space underneath the driver’s side taillight for the controller. Curt provided some double sided foam tape, so we just cleaned the flat part of the body and stuck it down.