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These pumps are designed for unleaded gasoline, and Project SC300 will be running on 93-octane pump gas. While we may purchase barrels of race fuel occasionally, we already have to work hard to keep power down in order to make the power:weight limits as required by our competition class, so we are running very safe ignition and fuel timing. This means no need for fancy (leaded) racing fuels.
The fuel filter is a 6-micron micro-fiberglass unit that will give us great filtration performance if we decide to use street fuel. The gas stations near some race tracks have fuel of rather dubious quality. The 848-series filters also have a built-in check valve that helps to maintain fuel pressure when the car is shut off. This can help prevent excessive vapor buildup in the rail and can help with engine starting. It gets wicked, wicked hot here in the South, so this seemed like an added benefit.
The 51502 regulator is a 1:1 rising-rate unit. This means that for every PSI of manifold pressure above atmospheric, an extra PSI of fuel pressure will be delivered to the rail. So for the ~12PSI of boost we are running, we would see 12 more PSI of fuel pressure above the base setting. Rising-rate regulators can be useful tuning aids, and we’ll discuss that once we get the car running again!
So, now that we’ve discussed a little bit about the parts makeup of the project, let’s detail the rest of the project.
First, uninstallation of the old fuel tank and lines. Then, proper installation of the fuel cell and what that entails. Then, proper assembly of braided steel fuel lines. And, finally, cleaning it all up and making it nice. As with any fabrication project, there are some gotchas and some important things to take note of, and we’ll do our best to show you those. On to the removal! I’m pretty sure you can figure out how to take a fuel tank out of a car, but here are some gotchas we found specific to the SC300.
6 comments
i have a 1992 sc300 gte engine and i was looking to do the same i have dual exhaust on my will i have enough room to run that fuel cell but nice work
You will definitely need to modify your exhaust to fit a fuel cell if you go with one as large as this. Ideally you would figure out your fuel consumption rate in G or L per minute, and then figure out your target run-time, and then size the cell accordingly. I probably could have used a _much smaller_ cell.
i have a 97 SC300 just sitting on the side of my house and just need to spend some time with it
this is my 3rd one in amazing condition
Awesome to hear! I would love to see more SCs out there getting it done.
Hey Erik I’ve kept close tabs on this blog and now I have an SC400 that’s ready for a fuel upgrade! I’d like to run the same setup you have, but I can’t make out what the dimensions of your fuel cell are. Is it the 25.75″ x 25.75″ x 8.5″?
Looking back, we have a Fuel Safe PC122C cell which Fuel Safe lists as 25.5 x 17.125 x 13.75 — However:
Radium discontinued its partnership with Fuel Safe some years ago and is now making its own cells from the ground up. They carry FIA and SFI certifications.
https://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Cells-RA-Series-P1822.aspx
If I had to do it again, I would not go with such a large cell. But things have changed. The car is a full-on race car that I trailer to the track, so I have no problem with filling it every session. 22Gal would be good for a “drive to the track” car but is quite ridiculously large for other circumstances.
Also, check out the PRI coverage from 2023 — Radium has a really trick new design for the FCST that makes changing pumps a breeze.