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| Here’s the driver’s side with the fender removed. You can see the electrical box and hood release cable. |
The passenger’s side does not have the two holes for the middle mounting point like the driver’s side. Also, the bag of parts did not have any nuts and bolts to use for these holes. I think the instructions were trying to say there was an optional accessory bag of nuts and bolts to use if the user decided to drill out the holes there. We highly recommend using this mounting point as we will explain later.
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| With the brace installed, there’s only enough space to reattach the electrical box using one bolt. |
The last bit to install was the washer fluid bag. Remember those instructions? Yeah, there’s one picture of it installed behind the passenger’s side headlight. Too bad we wasted a half hour before that trying to jam it behind the battery. There are some differences between the instructions and actual install however. Our car had a horn in the way (that the instructions didn’t show), and also the holder for the hood prop stick which eliminated the ability to use the black bar supplied to mount the bag; we are guessing the car in the instructions had hood struts. We came up with the following alternative mounting method.
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| On the passenger’s side, we have the washer fluid reservoir that needs to be removed. |
Without a full-chassis twisting machine, it’s hard to quantify the added stiffness, but it can certainly be felt through the seat of the pants. We installed the parts one at a time to get a feel for their affects. The Whiteline front shock tower brace had the least noticeable difference; in every day street driving, we could not tell if there was a significant improvement.
