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Project SC300 Road Racer: Part 18 – We have transmission!

  • Erik Jacobs
Blown Out Pilot Bearing Seal
Or you find out that the bearing just has a flimsy seal covering its balls, so the seal blows out and now you’re left with a gunky mess.

 

Socket Cap Screw in Slide Hammer
So then you get tricky and you put a small socket cap screw on a slide hammer and rest that behind the bearing race and then pray that it yanks the bearing out…

 

Removed 2JZ Pilot Bearing
Success!

 

Tilton Clutch Disc Instructions
Now it was time to stack the clutches and assemble the clutch onto the flywheel.

Tilton provides detailed instructions on the proper orientation of your clutches. Make sure you follow them.

Related

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9 comments
  1. Brad Morfett says:
    July 25, 2018 at 1:40 am

    Ah cliffhanger!

    Reply
  2. Jason says:
    July 26, 2018 at 10:44 pm

    I T56 swapped my JZZ30 about 5 years ago. Definitely a far better option than going the R154 route as some parts for them are becoming almost impossible to get. Plus the option of going dog engagement down the track.
    I used the factory auto bell housing with an adaptor plate. Gearbox is tight, but just fits in the tunnel. I think from memory an obsolete bracket or 2 needs cutting off. And It can be removed and installed as a complete unit. It just requires a few wobble drive extensions.

    Reply
  3. joe says:
    July 28, 2018 at 5:49 am

    i would recommend that you loosen the motor mounts, and let the engine ’tilt back’, possibly by hanging a weight from it…then you can get to all the transmission bolts with the aforementioned wobble extensions…i’ve had 2 or 3 feet of wobble extensions, to reach the bolts, which looks ridiculous, but it works.

    Reply
    1. Erik Jacobs says:
      July 28, 2018 at 7:51 am

      When doing transmission work on RWD imports:
      Step 1 — obtain every 3/8″ extension in the universe
      Step 2 — obtain several wobbles
      Step 3 — assemble all extensions and wobbles
      Step 4 — stand four feet behind the car
      Step 5 — tighten that one bolt on top of the transmission

      🙂

      Reply
  4. Shawn says:
    August 5, 2018 at 12:22 pm

    The V160 would never have to be changed as the aftermarket could easily offer replacement parts including gearing but between the race to the bottom price mentality of the bulk of buyers and the upper-side greed of potential manufacturers it’ll die one of the best high power manuals that ever was!

    Reply
    1. Erik Jacobs says:
      August 6, 2018 at 2:36 pm

      Shawn, you sound frustrated that I’ve chosen the T56 as opposed to the V160. Is that accurate? Or are you frustrated that there isn’t better aftermarket support for the V160?

      Reply
  5. Shawn says:
    August 6, 2018 at 2:44 pm

    Not frustrated at your choice more frustrated at my choices. You know my car from LI, we don’t live far from each other. Keeping myself on the DL 😉

    Would prefer V160 all day long but its a hose fest. Glad to see this option but its got to be plug and play. Was originally thinking the late Z unit but the info you’ve provided concerns me with the lack of plug and play for it.

    Reply
    1. Erik Jacobs says:
      August 7, 2018 at 5:16 am

      If you have a V160 equipped JZA80 then Grannas’ kits are going to bolt in with no issues. I have an early manual JZZ30/SC300, so there was some question about whether or not the trans tunnel was the same as the later year autos. You’ll see in the coming segments that in the end it wasn’t super difficult to make everything work on my JZZ30.

      Reply
      1. Shawn says:
        August 7, 2018 at 11:38 am

        Good to know as a fallback!

        Since V160 parts are still available, albeit rarer, I’m going to have mine rebuild. If all goes well on disassembly it should only need a 3rd gear syncho. Will have all the other weak items replaced with a complete REM polish of all components.

        Thank Erik 🙂

        Reply

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