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Driving
Rarotonga and Aitutaki (the other touristy island in the Cook Islands) are the only two of the 15 islands to have paved roads; other nearby islands use limestone roads. Driving in the Cook Islands is like hitting up the go-cart track. Showing your driver's license from back home and a $20NZD bribe (er… “tourist” fee) gets you an official mug-shot enhanced and laminated Cook Islands issued driver's license good for a year, give or take some months… If you left your license at home give them your driver's license number and they will still issue you one. Heck, anything that resembles a driver's license number would probably pass as long as you have the $20 fee accompanying it.
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| Coolest driving souvenir- you get issued the same class drivers license as your home one. Surprisingly, there were a number of Aussies that didn't carry their licenses with them. Bring yours to make getting one more convenient. |
If you want to drive a scooter, you have to pay another $5 kickback and take a proficiency test to basically prove you can keep both wheels on the road. More likely, this test is just for officials to get a kick out of tourist scooter skills. If coordination isn't your thing, you can pretty much lose control, bumper car your way from curb to curb, crash into a tree, and still somehow pass as long as your limbs are all still attached. Sounds like most of the 50 states drivers tests as well…
Don't say I didn't warn you- locals call it the “Rarotongan Tattoo”, the road rash tourists get after crashing a rented scooter. Though, the hospital does have a nice ocean view, it's not known for major medical or surgical needs. But patience isn't a virtue here, it's a necessity. Everyone in Rarotonga drives on Island Time. It's a pretty penny to import a car so scooters, bikes, anything with an engine- these aren't alternative forms of transportation here. You could pretty much ride a lawnmower down the street.
The speed limit is 50kph the entire 32km around the island, but you'd be lucky to get above 30kph- an astonishingly slow 18 miles per hour. You'll often see 3 guys in the back of a truck holding onto some boxes, ladders, and other soon-to-be spillage all over the road. You will also see mom or dad on a scooter with 2 kids “seat-belted” in via a thin piece of cloth wrapped around all three. The entire road is essentially a passing zone but the constant curvature of the road with badly lit oncoming scooters makes few of them passable without a game of chicken with the locals.
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| Beep, Beep! Don't expect to get anywhere quickly on this island! | Scooters aren't just made for one person here. |
It's easiest to call a rental agency from your hotel, inquire if they have a car (don't even think about being specific about options here), have them pick you up (free ride) and take you to the agency. They will give you your car, scan your credit card, and for another $2 they will provide you with a temporary license so you can drive yourself to the police station to get the more permanent one. Of course, the likelihood of needing it is debatable but what a cool souvenir!
Though not advertised as such, Island Rental is like Rarotonga's version of Rent a Wreck. What a selection! I have my choice of Nissan March, Nissan March, and oh yeah, a Nissan March. I assume the one with hood popped is busted, one other is also described as “undriveable” and that leaves me with the faded black one that looks like something given to a fleet of blind 16 year olds practicing pit techniques at demolition derbies. Actually, that's probably what happened to this one.
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| This ain't no spring chicken. The CG10DE engine was built between 1992 and 2002 for the K11 Nissan Micra and Nissan March. The 1L of fury has about 58 horsepower. It goes from 0-60 in about a decade but speed isn't a big deal on an island that's about as long as a dragstrip. |
Besides the fleet of Marches, you may find a small Suzuki (Cruze or Swift), Hyundai Getz, or Toyota (Yaris or Rav4) and maybe a convertible March or VW Golf. If you have no luggage, you can get a Smart Fortwo or Volkswagen Lupo. For wagons, you may find a Mitsubishi Dion or Mazda Premecy and Toyota Previa minivans. There are also some 9 or 15 passenger vans for rent. Most cars are between $40-75NZD per day ($30-60 USD) with 125cc scooters and motorbikes from $15NZD a day. Engine-less options (bicycles) are available for about $10NZD. You can even rent helmets and baby seats. You may have better luck renting something bigger as the crossover/SUV options were more up to date.
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