You can also adjust the rear roll center and camber curve by shimming this ball joint stub up and down.
Shims can be added here to change the rear geometry. More shim thickness lowers the roll center and slows the camber gain, less or no shims equals a higher rear roll center and less camber gain.
We are using GKTech’s camber arms. The arms have the most camber adjustment of any on the market and can adjust to -5/+7 degrees of camber! The arms are very strong and are made of E-Coated, tig-welded, 28mm diameter, 3mm thick wall Chromoly tubing. Like all GKTech suspension parts, the arms use FEA to optimize the design. The camber arms are a direct OEM replacement and can be used to correct the camber on a stock lowered car as well as a fully GKTech equipped car.
Spherical bearings are used instead of rubber bushings and the camber adjuster does not require the end link to be unbolted from the car to adjust the camber. All you need to do is loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusted to make camber changes on the fly. This greatly speeds up alignment time.
8 comments
It’s a little funny to me that you’re raiding gktech’s catalog because I came across them the other month and thought that they had a lot of interesting ideas in terms of engineering a whole system.
The mention of OEM ideas on anti-squat and so on just brings to mind a question that I’ve been mulling over – do you have sort of a rough geometry philosophy or with the production based stuff you do a lot with, are you too constrained to do more than “this is optimal within the limits I’m forced into”?
For me, I do not like anti-squat and anti-dive. For production, cars that have to have softer suspension and less sophisticated dampers. a small amount is probably ok. Nissan’s of this time had 30 plus percent, a stupid amount that has negative side effects. Things like bad wheel hop and squirting sideways when on the throttle. Nissan back way off on anti in the later models of these cars.
Do you have sort of a “this is the top priority” geometry-wise? I’m doing my tube car final suspension revision (which is to say, final before it turns into steel and I maybe decide to change it later based on on-track data) and decided to focus on “roll center in reasonable places and stays constant relative to CG” as kind of a way to narrow things down.
I understand if this is getting too into the weeds for a comment thread. 😉
In my opinion, nothing beats good old-fashioned unequal-length A-arms.
You should just know that double wishbone SLA suspension is ubiquitous and so far has not been reasonably improved upon. It’s simple, it’s light and easy to understand.
You can technically do trick stuff like put a hydraulic ram in an A-rm mount and give dynamic negative camber to outside wheels like the Mercedes Carver concept, but that’s obviously way too costly and complicated for a single person to do.
Someone went to a lot of trouble to make their product not look like the Driftworks Geomaster 3 rear knuckles.
That is because it is very different. The geometry is different for all the reasons we mentioned and there is axle clearance for 930-type CV’s. We used those knuckles before and they would not work with DSS axles.
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To wake neighbors up lol . Thank you hopefully I’m in
Right ate. To send this