In today’s video we’re building quite possibly the ultimate SR20 engine to go in one of our own project cars–so we hand picked every part that’s going into this build!
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4 comments
Damn I wish you would’ve made these videos a while ago. you’re saying the jwt cams make more usable power like in the mid range power? I have a similar build but not stroker set up . But in the future when ever I need a rebuild I’lll definitely get that extra torque from the stroker crank with custom rods and pistons. I’d probably use cp pistons again and a manly I beam rod or turbo tuff rod or maybe the same one you got. I do have arp head studs and mazworx main studs. However the machine shop didn’t have a line bore machine and it was gonna take another month or two so the mains were only torque to stock spec until I do a rebuild band get it line bored but a torque plate was used to machine the block. I did use mazorx timing belt kit with the new oil squirter being threaded and not pressed in and it has 4 holes instead of. 1 hole in the original one and it’s longer so even if it threads out it will just hit the cover and not come undone completely. I’m already at 86.5mm bore currently and I’ll want to sleeve mine with Darton sleeves to 87mm . But also did the same dual grooved shims conversion as well. Your build is a little nicer with all that coating stuff you did and the bore finish makes sense ok keeping the oil lubricated on the cylinder walls. I just have a cross hatch pattern with cp pistons and eagle rods w/arp 2000 bolts bc I got a good deal on them with arp race bearings and got mazworx calico coating on my bearings. And good deal on a bc valvetrain set up with the stage 3. BC 272 cams ,valves springs, valves, and supertech valve seals and tomei valve guides with ferrea valve keepers. But it seems like supertech is the best valves to put in your engine. So I do have an ati super damper and the stance oversized ud pulley with a mishimoto dual pass oil cooler I just upgrading from a single pass and for my rear diff cooler I have a Tilton viton pump. I do plan on taking to some track days very soon once I get a fire suppression system installed and finish the cage work for my car . So what Tran’s are you using in this sr20det build? Stock sr? What about cd009 or zf trans? I was thinking about getting maybe the zf or nismo 6speed transmission l later on in mine. No plans on doing the s13.4 hybrid valve cover. With the JET cam gears I really like the 8 hole design so there’s no issue of ever moving. So what ignition timing are you using on this sr20det build? I heard exhaust is usually left around 0 and the intake is usually retarded a some to help fill the cylinder up with more air? The tuner said the engine builder does that and the engine builder said the tuner does that. And I have the rocker arm stoppers but I can take them out anytime but can you explain why it sucks? There is so much new information I learned which I wish I learned earlier so my build would be built completely different. Why not just do a sr20ve head since it has roller rockers and you don’t have to ever worry about the rocker arms? You can rev higher and not worry about anything. It just sucks bc I would have to change my intake manifold and cams etc. I did see that you use different hydraulic lifters from a newer sr20 motor? Why not go solid lifters or too much adjusting the valves since their not self adjusting or just have to be on point all the time? I really want to do the sr20ve head conversion and sell all my parts later when I do a rebuild? Lastly what turbo charger are you using? I’m making currently about y which is more than perfect 😍😍 enough in a 1,900lb car.
SR20VE doesn’t have roller rockers. I didnt have the VE head and didn’t feel like spending the money getting one and for a lower RPM motor, there are fewer cam choices. This is my daughter’s car and she doesn’t need every last hp. The hydraulic cams give me more options and JWT’s hydraulics are better than most people’s mechanicals for power production and valvetrain stability. In my opinion don’t use darton sleeves for a race motor.
Lastly what is exactly is the stock redline? I believe mine is set up to 7K rpm. On my dyno graph it’s set up to 7K. And I heard the stock redline is is 7.8K or 7,.5K rpm and my hp line never dipped down and was still climbing at 7K. Which is why I want my redline set higher to 7.5 or 7.8 K rpm bc my hp dyno line was still going higher and am extra 500rpm redline increase or a tad higher so my highest hp would be higher if my redline was set a lot higher. I also have a mild port job done to my heads and a 3 angle valve job. I could’ve gotten a 5 angle valve job but sometimes a 3 angle is better than a 5 angle valve job depending on who does the job. But when I decide to do a fresh rebuild I’ll hit you guys up to get that cnc valve job to my car next time and go with supertech 1mm oversized valves. My machine shop does cnc machining for their high power port jobs. I’m running ID 1300cc injector with a radium in tank surge tank with 2x Walbro 450lph E85 compatible and running 2 fuel filters a 10micron on my 8AN feed line and to my fuel rail, from there my return line was 6AN to my aem for regulator and then to my AEM flex fuel sensor to my fuel filter 100microns back to my tank. And all my fuel lines were tossed out and I made new ptfe lines bc their all E85 compatible. What tb are you gonna use and intake manifold? Currently I have a Greddy s13 intake manifold and oem 60 or 63mm TB. S13. Since you talked about velocity stack in my plenum and runners to help the entrance of air a lot smoother and gain some power there. I’m not sure if you’ve seen the halo ring that P2M makes? It’s a velocity stack that goes before the TB and cold side charge pipe. And based on dyno graphs it makes around 10-11hp and about 3-4 tq thru out the entire power band at 18psi on an aftermarket tomei turbo which a baseline dyno and with the halo ring Dyno was made to compare the data to. And then the same thing but to a stock turbo and 7psi it made about 3-4hp and 1-2tq. I haven’t dyno in my car with the halo ring my guess is it will make a little more than the tomei turbo and boost levels since I’m making over a 100hp more so my gains should be around 12-15hp on my borgwarner efr turbo. Do you prefer the borgwarner efr series or the Garret G or gtx series turbos.
Stock rev limit is 7700 rpm.