• Tech
    • Tech Category
      • Engine
      • Bottom End
      • Rods and Pistons
      • Head and Headwork
      • Cams and Valvetrain
      • Cooling and Heat Management
      • Intake
      • Headers and Exhaust
      • Rotary
      • Engine Management and Tuning
      • Drivetrain
      • Transmission
      • Clutch and Flywheel
      • Differential and Final Drive
      • Driveshaft and Axle
      • Axles
    • Tech Category
      • Suspension
      • Shocks and Coilovers
      • Springs
      • Swaybars
      • Arms and Links
      • Bushings
      • Steering
      • Geometry Correction
      • Suspension Setup and Tuning
      • Brakes
      • Wheels and Tires
      • Fueling
      • Forced Induction and NOS
      • Aerodynamics
    • Tech Cat
      • Electrical
      • Battery and Power Distribution
      • Electronics
      • Wiring
      • Electrical System Education and Troubleshooting
      • Lubrication
      • Interior and Controls
      • Exterior
      • Paint and Bodywork
      • Wraps and Film Protection
      • Exterior Care and Maintenance
      • Data Acquisition and Tuning
      • Fabrication and Safety
      • Tips and How-To
  • Projects
    • Make A-D
      • Acura
      • Integra (DC2)
      • NSX
      • CSF RSX (DC5)
      • BMW
      • E30 (SR20 Powered)
      • E36 323is
      • E36 M3 (Black)
      • E36 M3 (Silver)
      • E39 M5
      • E46 M3
      • E90 M3
      • E46 Racecar
      • Yost Auto E92 M3
      • Yost Auto F82 M4
      • Chevrolet
      • Camaro Gen5
      • Corvette Stingray (C7 Z51)
      • Corvette Stingray (C8 Z51)
      • GMC Canyon
      • Dodge
      • Viper GTS
    • Make E-I
      • Ford
      • E350 Tow Rig
      • F150 EcoBoost
      • Fiesta ST
      • Focus ST
      • Mustang 5.0 (Grey)
      • Mustang 5.0 (White)
      • Mustang S197 (Budget Track Car)
      • Mustang S550 GT
      • Honda
      • Civic EF Racecar
      • Civic Si (Coupe)
      • Civic Si (EP3)
      • Civic Si (Saloon)
      • EJ Civic
      • Polystrand CRX
      • S2000 (AP1)
      • S2000 (AP2)
      • Infiniti
      • G20 Racecar
      • G20 (P10 AWD Turbo)
      • G35
      • G37S
    • Make J-M
      • Isuzu
      • Vehicross
      • Lexus
      • ISF
      • SC300
      • Mazda
      • V8 RX7 (3rd Gen)
      • RX-7 (3rd Gen)
      • RX-7 Restomod (3rd Gen)
      • Skyactiv 3
      • Frankenmiata
      • Miatabusa
      • My Girlfriend’s Miata
      • Mitsubishi
      • EVO VIII
      • EVO IX
      • EVO X
      • CSF EVO X Racecar
      • Professional Awesome EVO VIII
    • Make N-P
      • Nissan
      • 200SX
      • 200SX SE-R
      • 240SX Land Speed Racer
      • 300ZXTT
      • 350Z
      • 350Z Drift Car
      • 370Z
      • GT-R (R33)
      • GT-R (R35)
      • GT-R (Team America BNR32)
      • LS S13
      • NX GTi-R
      • Pathfinder
      • S13 Drift/Grip Do-it-All Mega 240
      • Sentra SE-R
      • Sentra Spec V
      • Silvia
      • STurdteen Drift Car
      • Porsche
      • 991 GT3RS
      • Cayman (987)
      • Cayman T
      • Cayman GTS 4.0
    • Make S-Z
      • Scion
      • FR-S
      • Scion Tuner Challenge FR-S
      • TC
      • Subaru
      • Autocross BRZ
      • Legacy GT
      • STI (gen 2)
      • STI (gen 3)
      • WRX (GD)
      • WRX (VA)
      • Toyota
      • 4Runner
      • AE86 Corolla
      • GR Corolla
      • Starletabusa
      • Supra Mark IV
      • Tacoma
      • Tundra
      • Volkswagen
      • MKIV Jetta TDI
      • MKVI Golf TDI
      • MKVII Golf R
      • Sipster (Rabbit)
    • Other Projects
      • Powersports
      • Aprilia RS50
      • Aprilia SR50
      • Doodlebug
      • Ducati 998
      • Ducati Hypermotard
      • Honda Ruckus
      • Husqvarna TE610
      • Go Karts
      • Other
      • Sim Racer
      • Aurora Cobra
      • Garage
      • NP01 Prototype
  • Features
    • Features
      • Feature Cars
      • Drag Race Cars
      • Drift Cars
      • Land Speed Cars
      • Open-Wheel Cars
      • Rally Cars
      • Road Race Cars
      • Street Cars
      • Time Attack Cars
      • Drag Racing
    • Features
      • Events
      • Drifting
      • Land Speed Racing
      • Open-Wheel Racing
      • Time Attack Racing
      • Rally Racing
      • Road Racing
      • Car Shows
      • Columns
      • SlipAngle Podcast
  • Video
  • Shop *NEW*
  • MotoIQ Garage Services
  • About
  • Shop *NEW*
  • MotoIQ Garage Services
  • About
MotoIQ
MotoIQ
  • Tech
    • Tech Category
      • Engine
      • Bottom End
      • Rods and Pistons
      • Head and Headwork
      • Cams and Valvetrain
      • Cooling and Heat Management
      • Intake
      • Headers and Exhaust
      • Rotary
      • Engine Management and Tuning
      • Drivetrain
      • Transmission
      • Clutch and Flywheel
      • Differential and Final Drive
      • Driveshaft and Axle
      • Axles
    • Tech Category
      • Suspension
      • Shocks and Coilovers
      • Springs
      • Swaybars
      • Arms and Links
      • Bushings
      • Steering
      • Geometry Correction
      • Suspension Setup and Tuning
      • Brakes
      • Wheels and Tires
      • Fueling
      • Forced Induction and NOS
      • Aerodynamics
    • Tech Cat
      • Electrical
      • Battery and Power Distribution
      • Electronics
      • Wiring
      • Electrical System Education and Troubleshooting
      • Lubrication
      • Interior and Controls
      • Exterior
      • Paint and Bodywork
      • Wraps and Film Protection
      • Exterior Care and Maintenance
      • Data Acquisition and Tuning
      • Fabrication and Safety
      • Tips and How-To
  • Projects
    • Make A-D
      • Acura
      • Integra (DC2)
      • NSX
      • CSF RSX (DC5)
      • BMW
      • E30 (SR20 Powered)
      • E36 323is
      • E36 M3 (Black)
      • E36 M3 (Silver)
      • E39 M5
      • E46 M3
      • E90 M3
      • E46 Racecar
      • Yost Auto E92 M3
      • Yost Auto F82 M4
      • Chevrolet
      • Camaro Gen5
      • Corvette Stingray (C7 Z51)
      • Corvette Stingray (C8 Z51)
      • GMC Canyon
      • Dodge
      • Viper GTS
    • Make E-I
      • Ford
      • E350 Tow Rig
      • F150 EcoBoost
      • Fiesta ST
      • Focus ST
      • Mustang 5.0 (Grey)
      • Mustang 5.0 (White)
      • Mustang S197 (Budget Track Car)
      • Mustang S550 GT
      • Honda
      • Civic EF Racecar
      • Civic Si (Coupe)
      • Civic Si (EP3)
      • Civic Si (Saloon)
      • EJ Civic
      • Polystrand CRX
      • S2000 (AP1)
      • S2000 (AP2)
      • Infiniti
      • G20 Racecar
      • G20 (P10 AWD Turbo)
      • G35
      • G37S
    • Make J-M
      • Isuzu
      • Vehicross
      • Lexus
      • ISF
      • SC300
      • Mazda
      • V8 RX7 (3rd Gen)
      • RX-7 (3rd Gen)
      • RX-7 Restomod (3rd Gen)
      • Skyactiv 3
      • Frankenmiata
      • Miatabusa
      • My Girlfriend’s Miata
      • Mitsubishi
      • EVO VIII
      • EVO IX
      • EVO X
      • CSF EVO X Racecar
      • Professional Awesome EVO VIII
    • Make N-P
      • Nissan
      • 200SX
      • 200SX SE-R
      • 240SX Land Speed Racer
      • 300ZXTT
      • 350Z
      • 350Z Drift Car
      • 370Z
      • GT-R (R33)
      • GT-R (R35)
      • GT-R (Team America BNR32)
      • LS S13
      • NX GTi-R
      • Pathfinder
      • S13 Drift/Grip Do-it-All Mega 240
      • Sentra SE-R
      • Sentra Spec V
      • Silvia
      • STurdteen Drift Car
      • Porsche
      • 991 GT3RS
      • Cayman (987)
      • Cayman T
      • Cayman GTS 4.0
    • Make S-Z
      • Scion
      • FR-S
      • Scion Tuner Challenge FR-S
      • TC
      • Subaru
      • Autocross BRZ
      • Legacy GT
      • STI (gen 2)
      • STI (gen 3)
      • WRX (GD)
      • WRX (VA)
      • Toyota
      • 4Runner
      • AE86 Corolla
      • GR Corolla
      • Starletabusa
      • Supra Mark IV
      • Tacoma
      • Tundra
      • Volkswagen
      • MKIV Jetta TDI
      • MKVI Golf TDI
      • MKVII Golf R
      • Sipster (Rabbit)
    • Other Projects
      • Powersports
      • Aprilia RS50
      • Aprilia SR50
      • Doodlebug
      • Ducati 998
      • Ducati Hypermotard
      • Honda Ruckus
      • Husqvarna TE610
      • Go Karts
      • Other
      • Sim Racer
      • Aurora Cobra
      • Garage
      • NP01 Prototype
  • Features
    • Features
      • Feature Cars
      • Drag Race Cars
      • Drift Cars
      • Land Speed Cars
      • Open-Wheel Cars
      • Rally Cars
      • Road Race Cars
      • Street Cars
      • Time Attack Cars
      • Drag Racing
    • Features
      • Events
      • Drifting
      • Land Speed Racing
      • Open-Wheel Racing
      • Time Attack Racing
      • Rally Racing
      • Road Racing
      • Car Shows
      • Columns
      • SlipAngle Podcast
  • Video
  • Projects
  • NX GTi-R
  • Nissan

DIY Alignment: The Basic Version

  • Frank Ewald

Setting toe on your own is another job that requires a movement – climbing under the car to make an adjustment, then out from under the car to check the measurements. With a string setup you require a line that is fine and it must be pulled tight. For photo effectiveness we have used some thick red wool – what you don’t see between the wool and the car is some fishing line. The next time around we are going to try some kite string that we hope is fine enough for measuring yet thick enough to be easily seen. Fortunately, Jeremy popped over and our toe adjustments were much easier. There’s no question, two people or a hoist will really help with this entire process.

The adjustability of the TurboFX arms is fantastic. Just realize that when you’re changing toe that you’re also having an impact on camber! And vice-versa.

As mentioned already, the TurboFX rear control arms allow for easy adjustment of the camber and toe. Adjusting one or the other would get the amount of toe that you wanted. Here the ABS slider plates (we will sell them to you for $49.99 each plus shipping) were awesome and as they were left over from another project they were free. Shouldn’t be more than a few bucks at your local plastics’ store. They allowed the wheel to slip easily while the adjustments were made – even better is that we got the ABS at our favourite trailer shop, Cottonwood RV in Chilliwack, for just a few bucks. Of course, it helps that Kyle works there, but ABS is reasonably priced and easy to cut with a jigsaw (use a course blade with a low tooth count as a fine tooth blade will heat up the ABS and it will weld itself back together). Once the rear toe was done it was now time to check the camber again. The adjustments being used affect both camber and toe, so you may need to adjust both again to maintain the specifications that you want. In our case, we gained a tenth of a degree more negative camber. We were happy with that so now tightened everything up. Then used a paint pen to mark the nuts so it would be easy to see if they loosened with use.

The 2J Racing kit is brand new and easy to adjust toe. Once adjusted, then use a paint marker to allow quick verification that everything is in the correct place. On track I am impressed with this kit; the downside is that it is not plug and play and that is not described by the vendor. Clarify that and then there’s no surprises for the customer. Unless it’s about shipping.

Adjusting the front toe on the Nissan was also an easy and relatively straight-forward affair. The 2J-Racing tie rod ends are brand new so nothing was seized. The inner tie rods were in great shape and not new – and obviously as some point in history channel locks rather than wrenches had been used for adjustment as they were a bit chewed up. The inner tie rod should have a hex shape for adjustment somewhere near the middle – so use the proper tool. Without shortening the inner tie rods we mentioned in the DIY Aero article that we had huge toe in; and we still needed to cut off a bit more of the passenger side inner tie rod to get the adjustment room required. Once that room was gained, it was easy to get the toe we wanted. Confirming that the camber hadn’t been altered, we tightened everything up and applied our paint pen marks.

This wraps up our story of our DIY Alignment. We spent a bit of money to make it as simple and foolproof as possible. This is not a DIY manual to follow for  your own alignment. If you aren’t sure, then go to a shop. But if you’re sure that your shop is not doing what you want, then it may be time.

When I told Paulo at AES Auto I was coming in for a tune, he knew that it would be anything but a simple tune. And he was ready for me. We first pulled the intake manifold off as in the midst of the factory rat’s nest of vacuum lines there was still a huge vacuum leak. As I’m running an ECUMaster standalone, all of the rat’s nest was removed and AES Auto simplified everything. It’s now ideal with even better vacuum source for the throttle bodies.
Since I replaced the head after my 2018 missed shift, we have not sought to have the 350 whp (as much as I’d like to have it back) that we recorded in 2018. AES Auto set me up with a very consistent 272 whp running E65. At my local track this means that my top speed is down from 286 kph on the straight to 274 kph. Don’t forget that aero may cause some of that reduction. Even with that loss of top end speed, I’ve attained a personal best time and am looking for even more.

Related

Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Next page
Related Topics
  • suspension
  • Tips and How-To
  • Suspension Setup and Tuning
Previous Article
  • Features
  • Tech

Inside Michael Essa’s 1000hp Formula Drift BMW E46 M3!

  • Mike Kojima
View Post
Next Article
  • Projects
  • GT-R (R35)
  • Nissan

Project DBA R35 Nissan GT-R, Bolt On Power Mods Part 1

  • Mike Kojima
View Post
6 comments
  1. BANFSTC says:
    August 20, 2020 at 11:44 am

    Great write-up. As always Mr. Ewald, your articles are informative and entertaining. I do have a question regarding the digital camber/caster tool: Is there a way to zero the measurement? You can zero a scale with nothing on it (or zero it with an empty container on it). How do you ensure that the -3.25 degrees of negative camber as measured by the tool is actually -3.25 degrees?

    Reply
    1. Frank Ewald says:
      August 20, 2020 at 12:26 pm

      Banfstc, thank you. I appreciate your kind words.
      Great question about the Longacre unit. It is supposed to hold it’s zero, even when shut off. According to AES, running my car on the Mustang dyno was like running one of his drift client cars – it didn’t want to run nicely for him. So I’m pretty sure the -ve camber is there. More details about the Longacre calibration can be found here: http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions.aspx?item=42369&article=AccuLevel%E2%84%A2%20%20Pro%20Model%20Digital%20Level%20(ver.%205)

      Reply
    2. Dustin says:
      August 22, 2020 at 5:10 pm

      It also has a calibration procedure if you’re in doubt that zero is zero.

      Reply
  2. Frank Ewald says:
    August 20, 2020 at 12:27 pm

    In other words, you have to believe! Another reason to select a good name like Longacre.

    Reply
  3. ERK says:
    August 20, 2020 at 4:59 pm

    Thank you so much for this article. I read Erik’s article when it first came out and dreamed about something like that, but unfortunately, his set up is out of my price range. This on the other hand is right up my alley. Thanks

    Reply
    1. Frank Ewald says:
      August 20, 2020 at 6:17 pm

      ERK, exactly. I can only dream about Erik’s setup; but I have this one!

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Input your search keywords and press Enter.