How to Build a 5.0 Coyote Engine on Any Budget


L&R Engines in Santa Fe Springs, California, was the shop we chose to build our Coyote engine. Ahead of our build session, they honed our block .010-inch over, lightly decked the heads, and checked the main’s align hone. Even with nearly 100,000 miles on the clock, our F150 core was in great shape.


I’ve personally followed along with six Coyote engine builds and they have all used stock diameter main bearings, though King does offer over and undersized.


The new and balanced BOSS 302 crankshaft is installed and the ARP nuts are torqued to spec.


Coyote engines feature extremely robust six-bolt mains. ARP includes the side bolts as part of their main stud kit.


Our JE Pistons hung on K1 Technologies’ H-Beam rods. The K1 rods are a great value for a forged 4340 connecting rod and we’ve seen them make over 1,000 horsepower in a Coyote configuration.

Our JE Pistons feature a symmetrical skirt design that has a relief for the factory oil squirter, though we didn’t use them for our build. We started with their 11:1 PN 314420 and reduced the compression to 10.5:1. With our block and head decking we ended up right back at 11:1 where we wanted to be.



  1. Tons of great information here, thanks for sharing! I’m looking forward to coyote swapping my 97 GT, just trying to figure out how much I really want to spend on the build, and this really helps!

  2. 500 HP?? Do you guys really believe this is all they can handle? I’ve been running 609 rwhp in my 2013 F150 for 127,000 miles. Plenty of other guys making alot more than 500 with these engines. Do a little more research next time guys.

    1. We are talking about really handling it, not as a burst through the gears streetcar or 1/4 mile at a time. If yours is holding together at 600 plus with your typical use, that’s great but we are talking about a solid conservative power rating. There is a great possibility that your 600 hp wonder would disassemble itself under the kind of use we subject these motors to.

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