,
Yup, upper and lower A-arms with the pushrod actuating the bell crank for the inboard mounted damper. Yup, more tape covering holes.
Camber is adjusted by modifying the number of shims. The nice thing about this particular design is that toe is not affected by camber adjustment as you can see the tie rod is attached to the inboard component. And yes, this is the right front brake rotor; labeling is the key to keeping things organized.
Brake cooling is adjusted by attaching different sized block-off plates to the cooling duct. Air is fed to the rotor in front and behind the axle. At the bottom of the hub arrangement is an infrared sensor (at the end of the wire running along the back side of the dust shield) to keep tabs on rotor temperature.
No cross-drilled rotors here. The slots in the rotor hat for the rotor to hat bolts are quite long which maybe speaks to how much the rotor hat grows due to the heat the brakes see during racing.
The brake pads are labeled too. This is the right rear brake caliper; notice how it is one solid piece for maximum stiffness. It appears that only two mounting bolts are used to secure the caliper, so a brake pad swap should be a quick task. In the background, you can see the rear pods added to help prevent wheel-to-wheel contact.
The rear wing is a relatively simple affair. In the middle of the wing, a partial width wicker bill is mounted to adjust the downforce level. It’s hard to see, but tape is used next to the number ‘1’ to seal up the holes used for mounting the upper element of the rear wing and to clean up the airflow. That black pod on the side is used to mount a camera for TV broadcasts. If no camera is present then the pod is filled with ballast to simulate the camera’s weight.
