,
Now our freshly coated parts were ready for assembly. The threaded protrusion on the bottom of the Koni insert is too long as it comes so it has to be trimmed. I removed roughly 12mm from the nipple, however I encourage you to test fit the parts and cut according to your own setup. Some people assemble the insert and housing and then cut to length, there is no wrong way as long as you are able to draw the insert all the way in to the housing. The threaded nipple will protrude just slightly through the bottom of the OEM housing. Please note that cutting them is absolutely necessary. If they are not cut you will run in to issues with them hitting the axle boot… So please do this properly! We used JB weld on the bottom and top of the insert before we assembeled them. This coupled with the bottom bolt guarantees the inserts will NOT come out of the housings.
 |
| It is imperative to trim the threaded protrusion or it will interfere with the axle boot. |
Once the insert is fully seated in the housing it is time to asemble the bottom. You will need the Koni supplied bolt, fender washer, and star washer, you will also need a spacer so that you clear the insert protruding from the bottom of the housing. We sourced some 5mm headset spacers from a bike shop and they worked perfectly.
 |
| The spacer on the bottom allows the Koni insert to slightly protrude through the bottom of the housing. This is the proper way to assemble the insert. |
The coilover sleeves came next. Because the coilover sleeve inner diameter is larger than the OEM housing you need something to take up that space. We wanted to be sure the sleeves were straight and there was zero room for movement. We used some good old fashioned duct tape. We simply wrapped it around the OEM housing until the coilover sleeve fit snugly over the top. To keep the Sleeve from moving around or rotating we used silicone to hold them in place.
 |
 |
| We used 150 MPH tape to take up the space between the sleeve and housing, we then siliconed the sleeves in place. |
Next we simply assembeled the remainder of the suspension pieces. In the front we chose to use Ground Control’s camber/caster plates. We like these because they mount to the top of the strut tower, this increases suspension travel! They also allow for easy camber and caster changes. We had to get a little creative with the assembly of the front suspension. Because of the threaded portion of the Koni insert we were forced to use a tapered spacer to get the assembly to fully seat with the GC plates. For this we used the GC supplied nuts, we simply drilled out the threads and cut the hex off the top, we then topped the spacer with the Koni supplied lock washers and nuts.
 |
| The tapered spacer on the bottom is reuired to fully seat the assembly in the Ground Control plate. |
 |
| The finished front setup. They almost look like they came from Koni this way! |
For the rears we chose to use Motivational Engineering upper mounts. We are glad we had these mounts left over from our previous setup as Motivational is no longer in business. These aluminum mounts serve to restore much needed suspension travel. As we have now mentioned this three times you can see the common theme here… This chassis needs EVERY ounce of travel it can get!
 |
| The completed rear assembly. Note the white disc on the top of the shock! This is a piece that Koni supplies to assist in keeping grime and debris out of the shock. |
