
I asked the team at Paradox Performance to set the ride height similar to the factory SPASM specification to keep the car street friendly.

For the alignment, I’m taking a little bit of a swing at the specs as I’m not positive on how the new spring rates will shift the dynamics with respect to the alignment. I asked for the front caster only to be backed off a few mm to avoid the front inner fender liner rub and left the front camber at -3.0. The rear camber was increased to -3.0 from the previous -2.5; I was showing significantly more outside shoulder wear on the rear with the factory springs and dampers compared to the fronts. Coincidentally, on my old S2000, I ended up with around -2.8 degrees of camber front and rear. The front toe is set to 0 and the rear is toe-in 2mm, same as before.

Before dropping the car off at Paradox Performance, I loaded up new values in the shock calibration tables in the DSC that would work for both the factory dampers and the new Tractives. The mA range for the factory dampers is around 1700mA-100mA and the Tractives go from 2000mA-600mA. So, I set the range from 1600mA-600mA. Joey, the owner of Paradox Performance, did a check-out drive to make sure the installation by his team was to his satisfaction and he noted the front-end felt like it needed more rebound.

Based on Joey’s feedback, I stiffened up the front compared to the rear. I used all the exact same values in the DSC maps as before except for adjusting the Shock Calibration values. For Normal mode, I set the front range to 1900mA-900mA and the rears to 2000mA-1000mA. In Sport mode, the fronts are 1600mA-600mA and the rears are 1700mA-700mA.
I’ve only driven on the street so far, but my initial impressions are very positive. As expected, turn-in and lateral transitions happen much more quickly now with less roll; about double the factory spring rates will do that. What’s fantastic is that the car is still great on the street from a feel perspective. One of the selling points of the Tractive DDA dampers is the reaction speed of the dampers at 6-10 milliseconds compared to the factory Porsche dampers in the 100-150 millisecond range. I can tell you that the Tractive setup rides smoother over all the little bumps compared to the factory dampers. There is this one 40mph sweeper that I take on the way to work that is quite bumpy. The new Tractive setup is noticeably smoother and more stable driving through the bumpy corner compared to stock despite the much higher spring rates. And that was driving using Normal mode. Sport mode seems really unnecessary now except for driving on the smoothest roads. I’m excited to get this thing out on the track and put it in Sport. As for the transmission mounts with the softest durometer yellow inserts, I think they feel just a bit stiffer than the factory PADM mounts set to their stiffest; maybe around 10%-20% stiffer. I think the car is a little bit buzzier over 4,000 rpms and I can feel some vibrations through the center tunnel. The difference in NVH with the Rennline transmission mounts compared to the factory PADM mounts is much less pronounced compared to when I put the Hasport engine mounts in the S2000; there was no mistaking the S2000 had non-factory engine mounts. I’ve gone back and forth in my head if I should have used the medium stiffness blue mounts to get a noticeable difference, but I’m content with the stiffness with the softest yellow inserts. If you want a ‘dumb’ transmission mount after your PADM fails, and it will fail, these Rennline mounts with the yellow inserts basically feel only a bit stiffer than PADM at full stiff. There is some extra noise that makes it into the car with one of those noises sounding like straight-cut gears when cruising at highway speeds, but it’s quite low dB. Tire noise or just turning up the stereo a bit will easily drown out the extra noise from the transmission mounts while cruising. I didn’t even notice this straight-cut gear-like sound until I went on the highway and it was barely noticeable. Of course, you can go even stiffer with the mounts with the blue and red inserts if you want to. Just don’t forget to the extra washers to put under the bolt heads.
A concern I had in going with the stiffer springs was causing the car to be too bumpy during highway driving. My old S2000 on KW Clubsports with 12kg/mm front and 10kg/mm rear spring rates was so bumpy driving down the 405 around Los Angeles, I couldn’t drink out of a cup as it would spill everywhere. The 718 Cayman with the Tractives and the spring rates I selected are just as smooth as stock. This was my hope in sticking with spring rates close to the 718 GT4 factory values. The one downside of the Tractive Track Line setup is a fair amount of noises going over bumps. The spherical bearings in the adjustable camber plates are the likely culprit in transmitting all the new noises. For me, the extra noises are no big deal. The gain in chassis responsiveness, the improved cornering stability, and better ride quality I’ve experience on the street so far have met all of my goals. Make no mistake, the TracTives and the Rennline transmission mounts have solidly shifted the bias of the car to the track side of the balance due to all the extra noises. No typical person would ride in the car and think it came like this from the factory. Now I need to get on the track to also verify the improved tire wear and extra grip from better utilization of the tires.

With the new coilovers installed, the car is ready for the track again. To fill the track itch while my car was not in track-capable condition, I drove the GT4 and 992.2 GT3 at the Porsche Experience Center Los Angeles. Anyone who is an advanced driver, I say skip the GT4 and just go straight to the GT3. The latest generation GT3 I drove had rear wheel steering and the shorter gearing. I’d say two features make the 992.2 GT3 really stand out: the engine and the steering. The throttle response of the GT3 is extremely precise and fast; it rivals an electric motor. The engine will dole out exactly the torque you demand based on throttle position nearly instantaneously. The PECLA has a wet skidpad and a low-friction handling course for drifting. I’ve driven a half-dozen cars on the wet skidpad and had never held a drift more than ¾ of the way around. With this GT3 and the very precise and quick throttle control, for the first time, I was able to keep a drift around the skidpad. Then we went on the low-friction handling course and I was able to drift and link a few corners together, looking like I’d done it before. Trust me, I never have. The other standout characteristic of the 992.2 GT3 is the very quick steering. It has both a quicker steering rack and the rear wheel steering. The steering is so quick, I knocked over a cone the first time around the auto-x course. Oh, one other thing, the tires never went off on the GT3 over the course of the hour I drove it. That double control arm front suspension is pretty nice. The GT4, on the factory alignment, I cooked the front tires like I did my first time out in my 718 on the factory alignment. I drove the 991.2 GT3 at PECLA some years back and that car was really good. The 992.2 GT3 is really REALLY good. The quick steering combined with the front-end grip is something else.

I sold my trusty 2005 Honda CBR 600RR three years ago to make space for the Cayman and I hadn’t been on track on a bike in a dozen years. I decided to scratch that itch too and hit up the California Superbike School. It had been nineteen years since I last did the school, so I repeated the Level 1 class. Last time, the school used Kawasaki ZX-6Rs. Now, the bikes are BMW S 1000 RRs. I don’t know what BMW did, but this liter bike flicks side-to-side as quickly as my 600cc CBR. Modern bikes have all the modern electronics with drive modes, ABS, and traction control. And I’m pretty sure I felt wheelie control too; I was full-throttle in third gear and I swear I felt the front wheel wanting to come up at around 9000-10000 rpm. The S 1000 RR pulls as hard in third gear as my old CBR 600R pulled in first gear. If you ride, I highly recommend this school if you haven’t already done it.
Time to get the Cayman back on track and see how the new suspension package works with the wheel and tire package.
9 comments
You can actually get really accurate results using the equation if you have access to the actual springs:
:Using Coil Spring Dimensions and Material Properties
If you are designing a coil or want to find the theoretical rate from its physical build, use the Spring Rate Calculator formula:
Equation: \(k = \frac{G \cdot d^4}{8 \cdot D^3 \cdot n}\)
G: Shear modulus of the wire material (approx. 11.25 × 10⁶ psi for standard steel)
d: Wire diameter (thickness of the metal wire)
D: Mean coil diameter (Outer Diameter minus the wire diameter d)
n: Number of active coils (the total coils that move and flex)
https://www.thespringstore.com/spring-rate-calculator.html
I gave it a try, but a there is a large unknown of material. That said, I feel like the numbers the online calculator generated are about 60% above any reference numbers I have found for other generations and models of Porsches. Any numbers I post are just pure speculation, so I’ll just stay quiet on them. I could bust out my old college textbook and run numbers myself, but the unknown material is still a big uncertainty. Key observations of the factory coilovers, the rear is a linear rate spring and the front is a progressive. On the assemblies, Porsche labeled that the springs are under 1000N of load.
Do you have the old springs still? Apparently you can actually measure them. I found this old forum post:
“CC, the variables you listed are what makes a spring…spring. When I was involved in IMSA and NASCAR, I tested each spring before it went on. The reason was that even a spring from a very well established company could be off by as much as 5%, which was too much for dialing in a suspension. Sometimes the error was due to the spring being bent because of a wreck. Usually it was just off. It didn’t have to be out much to be off. Evenly wound coil springs are very linear. To sum it up, you can either trust the manufacturer to be close, or test them yourself. Put the spring inside a PVC pipe slightly larger in diameter and set on an accurate bathroom scale and zero the scale. Using a push rod like a wooden dowel, push down until the spring compresses 1 inch and read the scale. These springs are rated kg/mm so there will have to be a conversion from lbs/inch.”
I also have a 718 with swift linear springs in the same rate, 70 up front and 80 in the rear. Mine are on B16s so not as exciting as your Tractives. For me the biggest improvement came when I added low speed rebound damping to my DSC to compensate for the heavier springs.
Looking forward to your extended review of these as dual duty and what changes you make to the tune long term.
What is the operating mA range of the B16s? I bet they are quieter than my TracTives. It was a bit surprising to me how ‘loud’ the car is going over bumps with the full spherical setup and the TracTives. My S2000 was still basically quiet with the full spherical control arm setup and the KW Clubsports. I think the strut suspension setup on the 718 chassis transmits more shock loads into the chassis compared to the control arm setup of the S2000. I do think the spherical bearing adjustable camber plates of the TracTives is a major contributor to the noise over bumps and they may just be due to the bearing sizing selected.
I have another significant change to the turbo and exhaust setup coming in stages. And I will need a new tune. The new setup from Raggdoll will have better response and I think the same or better power and it’s all bolt-on. I designed a new exhaust tip to replace my x-pipe too which will flow better.
Damper operating range
• OEM dampers – 1500mA is full soft and 500mA is full stiff.
• Tractive dampers – 1900mA is full soft and 500mA is full stiff.
The OEMs and B16 are both made my Bilstein and are the same valve. For a Non GT4 owner the B16 is a fully threaded coilover with a an inverted body, very similar to what came on GT4s.
A friend of mine in another 718 has the Tracitves and also complains about the same noises, I have not ridden in his car long enough to get a feel for them. He said he is suspecting the mounts.
One thing he loves about the tractive is its ability to bomb over the curbing in the corners on the track, the car does not get upset or wiggle at all. I did notice in his calibration that he does not have as much compression damping as I do. Seems the the next step for me is to try taking some compression out of my car and see if it is more compliant over bumps and curbs.
What I did to be more compliant over the sharp bumps during street driving is take out high speed compression in the velocity tables. I did -5/-3/-1 on the front compression hi/med/low. I did around -3/-2/-1 on the rear.
That is a great reference!
Currently my friend with Tractive is at:
Front Comp 3/3/5 reg and 5/5/5 sport
Rear Comp -5/-5/- reg and -10/-10/0 sport
Front Reb 10/15/20 reg and 10/15/20 sport
Rear Reb 5/10/15 reg and 5/10/15
I am at:
Front Comp 10/7/7 reg and 12/12/7 sport
Rear Comp 10/7/7 reg and 15/15/7 sport
Front Reb 20/20/15 reg and 25/25/15 sport
Rear Reb22/22/15 reg and 28/28/15 sport
Note that the high speed does not come into play on the stock and B16 valve due to the slower response time.
If you email me at s2kmanifold@gmail.com, I’ll send you the calibrations I made for the factory SPASM setup and my Tractive setup as a reference. No clue if they would be any better or worse to your prefrences in handling.
Yours and your friends calibrations lean heavily on the velocity tables and I think the values would act to reduce the rate of roll and pitch. Reminds me of how enzocat on Rennlist liked to do the calibrations. I kept my values much more mild. I tweaked the rear values to eliminate some turn-in oversteer I was getting and I took out some high speed compression to reduce some of the sharp bump impacts.