The cool feature is these arms that lever on the brake pads. This allows a racing-type caliper to simply and elegantly have a parking brake or a drift brake! All you need is a special brake cable which is included in thekit.
The rear rotors are solid and 290mm x 12mm. The stock rotors are solid 232mm x 10mm. The T3 rotors are a huge step up from stock! The rotors are drilled for both 4×114 and 5×114 bolt patterns.
The T3 caliper adaptors are CNC machined out of 7075 billet and are drilled for the AE86 6.7″ and MA40 Supra 7.5″ rear ends. If you want a hydraulic drift brake setup, T3 has a twin-caliper version as well.
Like the front, the rear brake lines are DOT teflon for a nice firm pedal.
With our T3 brake upgrades, we are confident that we will be able to stop quickly no matter how sticky the tires and how hard the car is driven. Afterall we have more brakes that the TRD factory GT3 cars on slicks had!
For more AE86 content stay tuned!
11 comments
Have you used the BP10 pads? How heavy is the AE86? Cause I’ve used the BP10’s on my NC with all of 150whp… I mean I guess they were useable, but they definitely did fade. And the pedal got super mushy cause the pads get really compressible with heat… and I went through half the pad thickness in one track day. Before you say it was brake fluid, I did the next track day with the same unflushed/unbled fluid in the car with some ST47 pads and the pedal never went soft. Unless the car is super light, like Ariel Atom light, the BP10 shouldn’t be used for anything more exciting than a spirited mountain drive.
They didn’t do too good on my turbo SE-R on the track but it was 300 lbs heavier. The AE86 is lighter and has bigger brakes but I think I will end up running BP20 or BPQ pads. The BPQ works pretty good on our EP3 project.
Weirdly, those parking brake calipers are a standard thing they make, but at least in the US they don’t seem to want to sell them outside of kits that are put together by some company like here. Part number 120-9463 and 120-9464 (solid vs vented rotor width) and 120-13517 if you want to try to hunt them down for something else; they’re available overseas of all things.
That is weird that it is not in any of their USA information.
It’s disappointing that Stoptech has been having so many supply issues due to the bankruptcy they went through. I’ve been using the 309 “Sport” compound on the front of my stock power NB Miata with a Superlite pattern caliper – the now discontinued Afco F88. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to design my own BBK around a $45 caliper. It’s been doing great for a year and many track days now.
I believe Flyin’ Miata sells a similar rear handbrake Wilwood, not sure why this isn’t in their catalog. FM says it is much less effective than the stock handbrake and is best thought of as a way to satisfy racing class requirements that dictate a handbrake, not something strong enough to initiate a drift. Maybe the implementation is different here though.
Stoptech got bought out by private equity and they proceeded to gut the company, divesting the assists and laying off all but one engineer who quit because of horrible working conditions. My dream would be that someone buys the company back and fixes it.
Those handbrake kits for Wilwood calipers suck. I had them in a kit I brought from Flyin Miata for my ’16 ND back in 2017 for a Laguna Seca track day. They can’t even hold the car on the tiniest slope. I adjusted, adjusted, and adjusted again. They just aren’t strong enough. I started cranking the steering wheel all the way to one side and carrying a wheel chock in the trunk to keep the car in place when parked.
Good to know
Can’t you adjust the cable pull on the lever? Seems like you could fabricate a simple solution.
Mike, any plans or upside for upgrading the master cylinder? I recall some Camry master cylinders will work.
T3 says the brakes are designed to work with the stock master cylinder and I did some quick calcs and it seems so.