You would think this would be an easy fix, right? The car already had a kill switch; just remove it and install this one. Wrong. The previous master switch had breaks for the battery and alternator. This is an acceptable way of cutting power to the engine: with both the alternator and battery isolated from the engine, there is no power to run the ignition system, and that will kill the car. The problem is that many kill switches are not rated for the high current of an alternator, including the Pyrotect switch. Instead, we rewired the alternator back to stock and added a cutoff for the ECU. We also added an alternator dump circuit, as this switch had a set of terminals for it. Finally, we added terminal covers for the battery lugs to remove a short risk.The alternator normally feeds into the fusebox and then to the starter motor, where it meets the battery. The alternator feed was extended to the interior for the kill switch and then routed to the fusebox. This was part of the extension from the alternator to the kill switch. Yikes.We cut out the mess and shortened it to reach the fusebox as Honda designed. Ideally, we would have removed this and replaced it with a new piece of cable, but that would have required removing and unwrapping the whole wiring harness. We used a crimped butt splice and shrink tube instead of solder and electrical tape. Much more reliable.Our new alternator should be much happier.
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What happened to the retro rx7 article with the new shocks article ?