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| Torque wrenches are made to apply a specific amount of rotational torque to a bolt or nut. They are not intended to break nuts or bolts loose. That is the job of the breaker bar (bottom). Using a torque wrench incorrectly can damage its calibration accuracy. |
Invest in a good torque wrench. Torque wrenches allow you to set the torque you want to apply. Audible torque wrenches click to let you know you've reached the torque you set it to. Visual torque wrenches show the applied torque on a dial or electronic display. Torque wrenches measure torque in inch pounds and foot pounds. Metric torque wrenches are also available in Newton meters (Nm), meter kilograms (mkg), and centimeter kilograms. Many torque wrenches have the conventional standard and metric measurements on them.
After you've tightened that lug nut to 85 foot pounds and need to get it off, use a breaker bar to help break it loose. A breaker bar has a flexible head and long leverage arm to provide more torque for removing stubborn nuts and bolts. They are perfect for removing lug nuts and axle nuts. They vary in price depending on the length of the arm (longer will provide more leverage), the socket size, and if you need a cushy grip or not. If the breaker bar alone isn't enough leverage for that bolt, throw the end of the jack handle over it or if you're real gangsta, whatever length of pipe you've got lying around.
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| A speeder handle is very effective at pulling and tightening spark plugs because you can feel the plug threads, preventing them from being stripped- an easy thing to do with spark plugs. The pivot design offers great leverage and ease on jobs where overtightening or cross threading would cause issues or oil leaks, such as head bolts and valve cover gaskets. Start with a speeder handle and use a torque wrench afterwards, if necessary. The compression tester is a great tool for diagnosing low cylinder pressure, often a sign of bent valves, worn piston rings or broken ring lands, or a blown head gasket. |
Spark plugs can tell you a lot about the condition of your engine and how appropriate the heat range is. Depending on your engine and modifications, they should be routinely pulled and inspected. Spark plug sockets usually have a rubber lining to protect the plug's ceramic body and hold the plug in place. They come in 5/8″ and 13/16″ sockets. A speeder handle will help you pull plugs quickly.
While you have your spark plugs out, you might as well test your compression. A compression tester screws into each spark plug hole and checks cylinder compression usually from 0 to 300 psi. A release valve resets the gauge. Good compression numbers vary by engine and can be found in the Factory Service Manual but another good rule of thumb is all cylinders should at least be close to the same compression.
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| A code reader tool will help diagnose the cause of your check engine light. If you've recently done some maintenance work that sets off a MIL, you can use the code reader to clear the code more quickly than waiting the typical time it takes for the engine to reset. It also includes software that helps you know what the code refers to, great for pinpointing things like an issue with your EVAP system or a bad O2 sensor. If you're lucky enough to live in a county/state that doesn't require any emissions inspections, send me your address so I register a few cars… |
Never work on your suspension without a spring compressor. Springs hold the entire weight of the car. Spring compressors stabilize the springs before you remove the nut at the top of the strut. And just in case, don't aim the spring compressor at anything. If it slips, the springs will fly with Superman force and test the strength of your walls if you're lucky to avoid hitting anything else.
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| Spring compressors contain the tension of the coil spring between the hooks. Coil springs have more than enough force to cause serious injury- even death- if they unleash their force in the wrong direction. |
