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| I also noticed that the rubber of the air intake boot was starting to crack, so it was replaced. |
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| With the fuel tank off the bike, I found that the petcock wasn't completely stopping fuel flow from the two barbs. Since a float needle failing to seal is reasonably common on dirt bikes, relying on the needle to keep the entire contents of the fuel tank off the garage floor is unacceptable. As if to emphasize that point, the petcock started leaking from the main body (outside the barbs) and dripping on the floor while it was off. The internal rubber seal was toast. |
The fuel I drained from the tank at that point was a little murky and appeared to have some water in it, so a thorough drain of the tank is probably another good idea for any used bike. I bought a new valve, meant for a pre-2006 TE610. It's missing the low-fuel indicator switch, providing a mechanical reserve circuit instead. Lots of other people have used this same valve, and I've seen no reported problems with the different angle of the barbs passing the hoses closer to the cylinder.
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| Mechanical reserve petcock. Notice the brake fluid reservoir is now mounted to the tab on the air box with a rubberized mount, which provides clearance between the brake fluid hose and the adjusted clutch cable angle. These can be found on the firewalls of various Mazdas in your local junk yard. |
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| The clutch cable is a common trouble spot on TE610s. The bracket that mounts it to the engine needs a slight correction in angle to prevent the cable from wearing against the side of the tube where it exits the sheath. |
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| A few strokes with a fine-tooth flat file were all it took to adjust the clocking notch of the bracket that attaches the cable housing to the engine case to get the rotation right. |
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| A careful tap with a hammer on the bracket clamped in a vise corrected the bracket's bend angle. Lube the cable and reassemble. Not only is longevity increased, the clutch pull is smoother and requires less effort. |
