Project Husqvarna TE610 Part 6: Horsepower and Handlebars

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TE610 carb inlet trumpet smoothed ported polishe
The Husky TE610 carb intake trumpet had a large ridge around the end on the inside, which was likely included to ensure the sand casting mold filled completely and the part solidified without excess porosity. It certainly wasn’t made to enhance flow. (Note this is a Husky part, not a Keihin part.) While the carb was off, I removed the inlet and filed the ridge to make a smooth contour as the trumpet met the air box boot. I also knocked down the sand casting lumps a little with 80-grit, but didn’t polish anything. The effect of this work may not be measurable on a dyno, but it makes me feel better.

 

TE610 carb adapter intake manifold rubber cracked

The “intake manifold” is a rubber and steel flange that connects the carb to the cylinder head. Enough of these develop cracks in the rubber that it’s safe to say they all will in time. Sudco’s price list for aftermarket manifolds ranges from about $20 to about $35, but none could be used directly or adapted to the Husky. The OE Husqvarna part is $83, which I wasn’t willing to pay.

 

The cracks didn’t go all the way through my manifold, so I cleaned it thoroughly and let it dry and evaporate fuel for a week or two, then goobered in all the cracks and over the top of them with black RTV silicone. It’s holding so far. Just don't expect silicone to hold if your manifold has cracked all the way through, as silicone is not gasoline resistant. It will swell and soften, and let go when you are many miles of dirt from any solutions. The back burner project list includes an aluminum manifold that will use a straight coupler to connect to the carburetor. It's all designed, I just need to get around to making it. 

 

TE610 airbox thread insert bolt stripped hose clamp solution
Husqvarna air boxes are known for the brass thread inserts molded into the inner part losing their grip on the plastic and spinning, preventing removal of the screws holding the lid on. This is definitely a place where prevention beats all the cure in the world. Hose clamps around the posts that the thread insert are molded into hold the inserts securely, preventing them from loosening. Not having had the problem yet, I added them as a “while you’re in there”. To my surprise, the feel of the air box lid screws was completely changed, snugging up quickly and firmly as if they were threading into metal rather than plastic. A couple of bucks well spent.

Update: Armor and controls

 

TE610 bent handlebar Renthal upgrade
I finally bent the stock handlebars with a third-gear crash on soft dirt. Wearing ATGATT (all the gear, all the time), I slid down the trail a few feet without so much as a scrape and had the bike upright before the guy behind me caught up. The Hyde Racing skid plate saved the ignition cover and the Bulletproof Designs radiator guard did its job perfectly. The Cycra hand guard was tweaked a little due to being rotated on the bar, but my hand and the clutch lever were both fine. The handlebar itself was bent about 1 1/4-in back and up. 

I wasn’t impressed, as I’ve crashed my YZ harder on worse terrain and had no issues. The YZ has a Renthal handlebar, so I knew what I was going to put on the Husky. Renthal products have helped win 153 World and 132 USA motorcycle racing titles. Their bars are strong, light and have a reputation for surviving at least as much abuse as anything else out there.

 

4 comments

  1. Hello,

    Nice review…

    I am from the Philippines

    I am planning to buy a 2006 Dual Purpose TE and SM 610 here in my country.

    Just want to consult you on what to check on the bike before me buying it?

  2. In 2021, it’s coming up on 10 years since I bought this bike. At that time, BMW owned Husky and the TE630 was the new model with EFI, but basically the same. KTM bought the brand, but sold the factory and tooling and has moved forward with its own models.

    Today, the TE610 wouldn’t be my first choice. I still have this one, but I worry about future parts availability. The SWM Superdual X is very similar, basically a lightly-freshened continuation of the TE630. I haven’t kept up on details and don’t know how much interchangeability there is between that model and this, especially for hard parts that may be needed to rebuild the engine at some point. If I was starting over today, I’d probably be looking at a KTM/Husky 500 or 690/701, depending on whether I wanted more of a long-distance or trail-worthy focus. For a little less performance but likely greater reliability and lower long-term running costs, the street-legal Honda Honda CRF450RL is very interesting. At an even lower price and performance point, I’ve thought about picking up a Kawasaki KLX300R for an around-town commuter. It’s so understressed and proven, it should last forever if you keep up with maintenance.

    If you are certain the TE610 is for you, go over all the installations of this project series here on MotoIQ and look at all the things that had to be fixed or were done to prevent future problems. Check all those on the bike you’re looking at buying, as most of the common problem areas were addressed. Beyond that, all the things you’d check on any 10- to 15-year-old motorcycle. There are also some good forums out there with a lot of Husky-specific knowledge available.

    Don’t assume you’ll just be able to get it and run it like a Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki or Yamaha. I had to go through this TE610 top to bottom and fix a bunch of stuff, and this bike had just 742 miles on it when I bought it, just enough to show where some problems would develop in the future. (I hope that’s right, it’s been awhile and I didn’t go back and look at the ODO pics.) I was able to save a lot of money because I have decent skills myself as well as a good friend who is a capable fabricator with a complete shop. A TE610 that’s been in service for a decade or longer is likely to chew up a lot of time and money to make it properly functional and reliable; you may end up rebuilding most of it or at least have higher running costs in the end.

  3. I just had to take a second look when I saw the name “Dan Barnes” on here. Holy blast from the past. Great to see you, man

  4. I bought one in November of 2020.. After 45 years on everything from Cr500s and Ktm 300s, to Dr 650’s, fjr 1300s, and so many bikes in between I can say that this bike is a pleasure. Its suspension, power, and handeling I have found to be far above that of the avergae Japanese 650 dual sport. The deal for me on my particular bike is that I had video of the history of the bike since new.. It has been to Baja, other sites in Mexico and then all over the country and the owner took videos of it all along the way over the last 15 years.
    He bought iet brand new, and rebuilt the motor completely bottom to top about 2500 miles ago with all reciepts and photo documentation. I was given many boxes of spare parts and new parts to keep up with any maintenance requirements. This bike is a Gem in terms of what it offers compared to the competition. The onlything that woudl be better in the dirt are current offerings from europe and probably the 450L but on the road with decent maintenance intervals and oil capacity and a nicely spaced 6th gear I feel the old husky takes the win except against a 690 or 701.. Just a great bike!
    I liked the idea about the clamps on the plastic in the airbox, good idea!

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