,
 |
| The Whiteline bar is 3mm bigger in diameter than stock and 50% stiffer. The bar is largely responsible for shifting the understeer gradient to make use of the bigger front tires. |
The slightly more complicated decision relates to the rear anti-roll bar. After much research, we decided to remove the rear bar to reduce the chance of oversteer and to potentially improve the rear’s forward bite in a turn by reducing inside rear wheel lift under roll. The KW equipped SCC S2K shootout car tuned by Robispec had a Whiteline front bar and no rear bar and that car was very well balanced when we drove it.
 |
| To remove the rear sway bar, we had to lower the exhaust. This required disconnecting the exhaust at the cat and unhooking the exhaust from a few of the hangers. |
The alignment specs and ride height are going to be tied into each other; the ride height affects the maximum static camber that can be set due to the suspension geometry. As this is my daily driver, we are going to set the ride height relatively high to minimize the chances of killing the front end on driveways, parking stops, and speed bumps. Also, staying relatively near stock ride height should keep the suspension geometry about where the Honda engineers designed it to be. Hence, the suspension geometry should not be in any ‘bad’ parts of the range of motion and not absolutely require a bump steer correction kit. We may get one later so we can get away with less static rear toe in. Another benefit to keeping the ride height close to stock is that it should minimize added stress to the rear axles by avoiding a high angle in the CV joint.
 |
| We removed the hangers at the resonator and one of the mufflers. We semi-stripped one of the nuts at the cat, so be careful! |
Something we found quite interesting while searching the KW website is the ride height difference between the Clubsports and V3s. The Clubsports allow for a drop of 0.9-2.1in, whereas the V3s allow 1.7-2.9in. That just goes to show, if you want to go fast, you need maximum suspension travel, i.e. not dumped to the weeds.
Alignment has a major affect on the cornering grip of the S2000. Generally speaking, the S2000 likes a lot of camber to generate cornering grip. Many people run up to -3.5 degrees. This is a street car however, so tire wear is a consideration. At my current ride height, we were rather limited to the amount of camber on the front, so we only went with -1.5 (you can get more static negative camber the lower you go on the stock suspension geometry). We set the rear at -2.0 to keep a little stagger similar to OEM specs (front: -0.3 -0.7, rear: -1.3 -1.7). Toe will be 0 on the front and 1/4 total toe-in on the rear (to aid the rear stability). The caster on the front was set to 6.5 degrees (near the max we could get).
 |
| The Clubsport instructions were missing the ride height information, so I used the info in the V3 instructions (downloaded from KW’s website). |
Since Clubsports are 2-way adjustable with rebound adjusted at the top of the shaft and compression at the bottom of the shock body. We started off with KW’s recommended settings for rebound and compression.
