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Along with the links themselves, I4X provides brand new zinc-plated Grade 8 hardware to attach the new links. They also provide the Zerk fittings for the rod ends.
Removal of the original links (should be) fairly straightforward. Jack up the truck, support it on stands, and remove the wheels. Then, unbolt the e-brake cable.
An impact gun makes removing the two bolts holding in the lower links a snap.
Unless, that is, someone way over tightened them and no amount of impact guns or breaker bars will budge it. In fact, these bolts (on the chassis side) were so tight, the lower links were actually bound in place! It took my entire body weight hanging off the opposite end of the link to make it move. No wonder the rear of our truck is still so damn stiff! Heat and penetrating oil failed: Time to break out the grinder.
Slicing off the nut without damaging the relatively thin mounting bracket was no mean feat. A cutoff wheel sliced through most of the flanged nut, and a flapper wheel ground down the rest. The bolts made a frightening “SPROING” when the nut popped loose. Once the nut was cut off, the old links dropped right out.
You can see how much beefier the I4X links are. To get a baseline, we set the new links to the same length as our factory links.
3 comments
Did you ever get the vibration issue solved? I am having the same issue. Mine is happening both under load with initial push of accelerator yet if push pedal more than 1/4′ inch it doesnt make noise. Does make noise at times with deceleration. How to solve driveline balance?
Hi James,
I never fully solved the noise issues in the Vehicross. However I have had a similar issue in the Cappuccino (loud groaning noise that sounds like driving over a rumblestrip, especially at highway speeds and under acceleration). I am currently having that differential rebuilt with all new bearings and shims. I actually bought another owner’s used differential carrier and the noise went away immediately. I am still having mine rebuilt as I had already ordered the parts and mine is an LSD while the spare I bought is open.
Anyway, it sounds like you are having the same issue so you will probably have to get your diff rebuilt. Sorry for the bad news.
Follow up. Have replaced u joints, wheel bearing and upper and lower tie rods and cv joints. Someone said the carrier assembly should be replaced. I am at a loss as I cannot drive down highway without it sounding like I am constantly going over rumble strips. (Maintaining speed on highway requires gas pedal to be barely pushed which is were this makes the noise. Just curious if you solved the issue and how if you did.