We filled the diff with the friction modifier first.
Then we filled the diff with just over 1 bottle of the 75W-140 gear oil.
Next up was a coolant flush. We located the radiator drain hole on the bottom of the driver’s side of the radiator.
Then we removed the radiator drain plug.
The orange Mopar coolant is a sign that the coolant was likely original and never changed, which is good because you don’t want to see green coolant coming out of your viper.
Quick Reference:
Page 1 – Trans Chassis Plate Removal
Page 2 – Trans Fluid Drain & Fill
Page 3 – Diff Fluid Drain
Page 4 – Diff Fluid Fill, Coolant Drain
Page 5 – Coolant Fill, Brake Fluid, Front Brake Bleed
Page 6 – Rear Brake Bleed, Power Steering Flush
Page 7 – Power Steering Fluid & Engine Oil
6 comments
Have any idea why ATF was specced for a manual? That seems pretty ridiculous to me.
Because the transmission was design to use ATF for good shift quality in cold conditions, compatibility with synchronizer friction materials, and minimized parasitic drag to maximize power to the wheels.
They probably didn’t want to develop a specific MT fluid since most of their vehicles are AT. It just seems a bit lazy to me, especially with a high horsepower halo car like the Viper.
I have no idea what the viscosity is on the Mopar MTL, but I bet it’s higher than Dexron III:
“Manual transmission fluid, as noted earlier, tends to be a higher viscosity than automatic transmission fluid. This helps the fluid develop a thick, durable protective film.”
What about clutch fluid?
The same Castrol SRF as the brakes.
The passion and dedication you have for this project shine through your writing, and it’s contagious. I can’t wait to see what’s next in store for Project Viper. Keep up the fantastic work, and thank you for sharing your journey with us!