Whiteline’s roll center correction kit features ball joints with longer shanks that drop the lower control arm outer pivot point to bring the control arm to a more stock-like position in a lowered car. The kit also has tie rods with longer shanks to lower the tie rod pivot location by an equal amount so you don’t add any bump steer.
Whiteline is one of the only companies who make parts that correct geometry issues in many different popular cars on the market. They’re a step above your typical bushing replacement company.
The early 2000-2004 GD WRX had steering rack bushings that wrapped around the rack. These were made of very soft rubber and allowed the rack to move from side to side and back and forth a lot. This resulted in a rubbery steering feel, and even a shifting steering center on cars with sticky tires and modified suspensions. In 2005 and later Subaru changed the design of the rack to have vertical rack mounting bolts and captured bushings, which solved the problem.
But if you have an older WRX you have nothing to worry about, because Whiteline has hard urethane rack bushings that increase the clamp load on the rack and keep it from moving to fix the rubbery feeling and shifting rack for good. These bushings are a must have item for all pre-2005 WRXs.
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
8 comments
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
We didn’t do it because of the fabrication needed and the Whiteline solution works fine.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Part number: 34170FE050
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35248589593_44ac3c8a2a_c.jpg
Good info!
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
Don’t really feel that it is an issue.
Hi Mike,
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
Whitelines seem to not squeak as much as other brands. I would say how often depends on your climate.