The rear diff is held in place with a transmission jack while Howard starts reassembling our WRX’s newly refreshed rear end.The subframe lock is threaded in place, the shoulder bolt keeps the subframe from moving.The subframe lock fully tightened down.Now its time to change the shifter bushings. First, the shift rod support bushing is removed.Our old rubber bushing had seen better days; it was deteriorated and cracked. Ian had been complaining of vague and rubbery shifting and we could now see why.To remove the rubber shift stabilized bar bushing, Howard cuts the flange off of it with a mat knife. This allows the bushing to be pushed out easily. The Whiteline bushing then simply pushes back in.
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
8 comments
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
We didn’t do it because of the fabrication needed and the Whiteline solution works fine.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Part number: 34170FE050
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35248589593_44ac3c8a2a_c.jpg
Good info!
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
Don’t really feel that it is an issue.
Hi Mike,
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
Whitelines seem to not squeak as much as other brands. I would say how often depends on your climate.