Everything was bolted back together.While Howard was working on the back of the car, George was disassembling the front suspension. Here he breaks the tie rod loose from the knuckle with a copper mallet. The balljoint simply unbolts from the knuckle and does not need to be hit hard to break loose a tapered shaft like what is typical for most other balljoints on the WRX.George removes the lower control arm.The rubber bushing is pressed out of the front of the lower control arm and replaced with the urethane Whiteline part. The flanges on the Whiteline bushing help control fore and aft movement.The rear lower control arm mount is replaced with the Whiteline anti lift kit mount.Here are the Whiteline roll center correction ball joints compared to the stock part. You can see how the long shank is going to lower the pivot point considerably.
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
8 comments
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
We didn’t do it because of the fabrication needed and the Whiteline solution works fine.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Part number: 34170FE050
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35248589593_44ac3c8a2a_c.jpg
Good info!
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
Don’t really feel that it is an issue.
Hi Mike,
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
Whitelines seem to not squeak as much as other brands. I would say how often depends on your climate.