George installs the Whiteline roll center correction ball joint into the front knuckle. The front lower control arm can now be reinstalled.To change the steering rack bushings the rack needs to be removed. Ian’s rack was old and leaking so we were replacing it with a rebuilt unit. Here Geroge removes the bolt holding the rack to the steering column.Since the anti-lift kit lowers the rear control arm pick up point, the subframe must be lowered as well with spacers to clear the pivots new lower location. Here Geroge loosens the bolts holding the front subframe while supporting it with a tranny jack. With the subframe out it is easier to get the steering rack out as well.George removes the steering rack.The stock rubber rack bushings were soft and swollen due to leaking power steering fluid. The new Whiteline bushings are going to make a huge difference.The Whiteline bushings are in place and the new rack is ready to go in.
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
8 comments
I have a lot of the same parts on my 2005 WRX and absolutely love them. One question, if you needed to replace the rack is there a reason you guys didn’t upgrade to the 2015+ rack? There’s a bit of fabrication needed to make it work on a GD but I’m really glad I did it.
Keep the GD WRX updates coming, I’m really enjoying them.
We didn’t do it because of the fabrication needed and the Whiteline solution works fine.
I would highly recommend swapping the WRX U-Joint for the GD STi one. The WRX has a large rubber bushing in it, while the STi is a solid linkage. They can be found used for about $70.
Part number: 34170FE050
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35248589593_44ac3c8a2a_c.jpg
Good info!
Hello MotoIQ. I’ve just wrapped up doing front lower control arm front, front ALK, rear lateral links, and lateral arm bushings from whiteline in my 1999 Subaru RS. I have already had the Roll Center Adjuster kit a few years now.
I haven’t driven the car yet, but what is your take on these parts “binding”? There’s a lot of info about urethane binding on the net, but I figured Whiteline has taken this into account…or have they? Thanks in advance!
Don’t really feel that it is an issue.
Hi Mike,
How often do these bushings need to be re-greased? Would it be helpful to wrap the bushing sleeves with teflon tape (doesn’t look like it was done in this instance)?
Whitelines seem to not squeak as much as other brands. I would say how often depends on your climate.