After our article reviewing Steeda’s Stop The Hop Package for the S550 Mustang GT, some of our readers asked us for feedback on Steeda’s Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace. Since our 2016 Mustang GT is now gone, we decided to try out the brace on our new 2018 Mustang GT and tell you what we think.
We were very happy with Steeda’s Stop the Hop Package. The quality and performance was top notch and greatly reduced bushing deflection in the rear subframe and differential of our 2016 S550 Mustang. We were eager to see what this K-Member Brace would do on the front of our Mustang.
The stock subframe/K-member is unchanged from the 2015-2017 Mustang and the 2018+ cars. So the Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace will not only fit on all S550s, but the performance should be identical. One giveaway that this is a 2018+ Gen-3 Coyote is the plastic oil pan and MT-82 combination.The Steeda S550 Mustang Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace came nicely packaged with all necessary hardware.Unwrapped, we can see the gussets at the center of the “V” and the durable powder-coated finish.Installation was very quick and easy, with all of the hardware fitting easily in place, while being 100% reversible. Here we can see the rear mount bolted in to the factory subframe.The front mount bolts under the front crossmember which results in a reduction of ground clearance by the thickness of this mount , which is about 1-inch. This is a bit of a concern because the lowest point of the car is now a vertically protruding section that can catch on the ground when bottoming out or an off-track excursion if you’re not perfect (I know i’m not). But Steeda is a reputable company that uses the products they sell and many of their track cars use these braces without issue, so real life results overshadow theoretical concerns in this case.
Good to read an honest opinion. This thing does nothing. Steeda sells a lot of vapourware and poorly built products. Their GT motor mounts are absolutely awful, unable to take the heat from a lapping day without breaking down. I’d look elsewhere.
Personally, I try to make my own braces if I can. You can usually make these for far less money, if you are willing to get creative. There’s pretty cheap ‘conduit’ that you can buy from Home Depot. I have used this to create my own subframes, and strut bars. Not always do you feel a huge improvement in stiffness, but as long as, you are not spending a grip of money, I always find the upgrades to be worth it. Obviously, if you are running street spring rates, you are ‘future proofing’ your car for the track, and sticky rubber, where you will most likely feel the difference in handling and steering precision.
In your comments about the ground clearance, I would suggest that any true automotive enthusiast focused on actually improving the performance of their vehicle, is not going to go out and ‘slam’ their car. The worst performing cars on the street are always way too low, bucking, bouncing, and scraping pavement everywhere. they go.
I just don’t know how you can think you have a ‘sports car’ when you have to go 5mph or otherwise you will inflict massive damage on your vehicle.
Surely, there has to be some middle ground. I have lowered all my cars, but not to the point of compromise. Also, I increase the spring rate, anytime I lower a vehicle., which should help negate some of the negative side effects of lowering.
I’m curious as to exactly why that fastening protrusion could not be made with thinner connections that are just as strong. Invest in some machine time for 1/2″ plate, bend and compress the end of some square tubing, do something than subtract an inch of clearance from that region. Steeda already charges high for what looks to be unimpressive hardware–not that I need everything anodized bright red for GO FAST!!1! but every stock photo of their products with a weld has disappointed, just like the functional but… ugly rear subframe braces I purchased. They couldn’t bother to have a decent set of welds on what was cut up angle bracket and tubing? They couldn’t bother to charge 15% more for a more advanced manufacture over bandsawing tubes and drilling slots in angle? I mean, I’d pay the premium. Just not Roush premium.
3 comments
Good to read an honest opinion. This thing does nothing. Steeda sells a lot of vapourware and poorly built products. Their GT motor mounts are absolutely awful, unable to take the heat from a lapping day without breaking down. I’d look elsewhere.
Personally, I try to make my own braces if I can. You can usually make these for far less money, if you are willing to get creative. There’s pretty cheap ‘conduit’ that you can buy from Home Depot. I have used this to create my own subframes, and strut bars. Not always do you feel a huge improvement in stiffness, but as long as, you are not spending a grip of money, I always find the upgrades to be worth it. Obviously, if you are running street spring rates, you are ‘future proofing’ your car for the track, and sticky rubber, where you will most likely feel the difference in handling and steering precision.
In your comments about the ground clearance, I would suggest that any true automotive enthusiast focused on actually improving the performance of their vehicle, is not going to go out and ‘slam’ their car. The worst performing cars on the street are always way too low, bucking, bouncing, and scraping pavement everywhere. they go.
I just don’t know how you can think you have a ‘sports car’ when you have to go 5mph or otherwise you will inflict massive damage on your vehicle.
Surely, there has to be some middle ground. I have lowered all my cars, but not to the point of compromise. Also, I increase the spring rate, anytime I lower a vehicle., which should help negate some of the negative side effects of lowering.
I’m curious as to exactly why that fastening protrusion could not be made with thinner connections that are just as strong. Invest in some machine time for 1/2″ plate, bend and compress the end of some square tubing, do something than subtract an inch of clearance from that region. Steeda already charges high for what looks to be unimpressive hardware–not that I need everything anodized bright red for GO FAST!!1! but every stock photo of their products with a weld has disappointed, just like the functional but… ugly rear subframe braces I purchased. They couldn’t bother to have a decent set of welds on what was cut up angle bracket and tubing? They couldn’t bother to charge 15% more for a more advanced manufacture over bandsawing tubes and drilling slots in angle? I mean, I’d pay the premium. Just not Roush premium.