A couple of light taps with a mallet are needed to break the sealant here. If that isn’t working, you can use a screwdriver to gently pry between the main girdle and oil pump inlet.Now we remove the timing chain guides. These use an allen head bolt, and people strip these ALL THE TIME. My recommended technique for removing these is to use a large impact with an allen socket. I then push down into the bolt as hard as I possibly can while I zap it off. Impact guns are usually better than breaker bars at not stripping allen head bolts because an impact applies downwards force on the socket when the hammer hits, which gives you added friction between the socket and the bolt.With the guides removed, we can remove the timing chain.Next we unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rear main seal housing on.And now we can break loose the silicone seal and remove the rear main seal housing.
Yes, I’ve broken my pulley using a 3 jaw puller like that before. It can be avoided if you’re careful and make sure to have the puller perfectly squared up with the crank and don’t apply any uneven pressure when turning the bolt.
If I’m not wrong, the correct type is an harmonic balancer puller. That type pulls the pulley with two bolts that go in two threaded holes in the pulley.
Well the problem is SR20 pulleys don’t have two threaded holes in them! That’s why I’ve been using a 3-jaw puller my entire life lol.
A normal 3 jaw puller will work, just be careful with your placement of the arms and make sure not to let the puller bolt shift on the crank bolt. When I broke mine I was removing the pulley while the engine was in the car while trying not to hit the radiator so I had minimal space to work with and was using an open ended wrench so it was hard to not let the puller move around.
I’m actually in the process of disassembling an engine and had no issues this time around removing the crank pulley
Hello i see that you live in LA and i wanted to know ware you take your block to the machine shop? it looks like i have a rod knock and am looking to rebuild my s14 Sr20det by myself . i would like to toake it to a machine shop that does things right. ware would you recommend me to take it ? i would really appreciate it. Thanks !!! Oh and am looking forward on seen your writeup on how to assemble the engine back.
Hi I noticed you mentioned you stay out here in la would you recommend me a machine shop to send my block and get it checked. I have a rod knock on my engine and am thinking of rebuilding it by myself for the first time. Would really appreciate the help.. thanks!!!
This write up will help immensely as I’ve never tore down an SR20 before and will be doing it shortly to replace pistons and rods. Thank you for doing this and I can’t wait to see your next post about blueprinting and reinstalling everything!
Absolutely thrilled to find such a well done and current article related to (disassembly) rebuilding the SR20 Part 1 however a little confused in your choice of a second topic in the series!
Our garage and assembly area are as near yours as possible, actually we are probable several pages ahead of you now however, my son and I are anxiously awaiting continuation into your thoughts and direction on blueprinting and reassembly.
Also waiting for this, looking at pulling my sr20 apart and found this to be a amazing first step but hesitant to go ahead without the rest of the information
Just wanted to say thank you for this great information!! Im starting my build soon and was curious if you were planning on sharing the blueprint and build up of the engine..
A little late to the game but have been following this article play by play while disassembling an SR20DET and has been very valuable. Have not been able to find the continuations of this project, has there been updates since 2018 – hopeful there are. If any users could share hyperlinks to blue printing, machine work, project reassembly that would be amazing. Thanks in advance for the assists!
24 comments
Nikita,
Huge fan of what you’ve done here! Just curious when youll be blueprinting the engine and doing assembly and posting that back on moto?
Love it thanks man!
Ryan
Nikita,
Great write up! Can’t wait to see whats next with this. Will be doing a rebuild on my SR very soon.
Awesome read great help.
Don’t you risk damaging the crank pulley with that type of extractor?
Yes, I’ve broken my pulley using a 3 jaw puller like that before. It can be avoided if you’re careful and make sure to have the puller perfectly squared up with the crank and don’t apply any uneven pressure when turning the bolt.
I’m surprised to hear that. I’ve never had issues, but I guess I’m careful. What type of puller do you recommend?
If I’m not wrong, the correct type is an harmonic balancer puller. That type pulls the pulley with two bolts that go in two threaded holes in the pulley.
Well the problem is SR20 pulleys don’t have two threaded holes in them! That’s why I’ve been using a 3-jaw puller my entire life lol.
A normal 3 jaw puller will work, just be careful with your placement of the arms and make sure not to let the puller bolt shift on the crank bolt. When I broke mine I was removing the pulley while the engine was in the car while trying not to hit the radiator so I had minimal space to work with and was using an open ended wrench so it was hard to not let the puller move around.
I’m actually in the process of disassembling an engine and had no issues this time around removing the crank pulley
Hello i see that you live in LA and i wanted to know ware you take your block to the machine shop? it looks like i have a rod knock and am looking to rebuild my s14 Sr20det by myself . i would like to toake it to a machine shop that does things right. ware would you recommend me to take it ? i would really appreciate it. Thanks !!! Oh and am looking forward on seen your writeup on how to assemble the engine back.
Engine Supply in Santa Ana is good.
However, I’m looking at RWD SR20DET crankshaft pulley photos and I don’t see those two holes. I’ve seen them in FWD SR20DE.
Hi I noticed you mentioned you stay out here in la would you recommend me a machine shop to send my block and get it checked. I have a rod knock on my engine and am thinking of rebuilding it by myself for the first time. Would really appreciate the help.. thanks!!!
Engine Supply in Santa Ana is good.
Excellent write up with pics on the SR20. looking forward to moe. just got one and going to start soon.
This write up will help immensely as I’ve never tore down an SR20 before and will be doing it shortly to replace pistons and rods. Thank you for doing this and I can’t wait to see your next post about blueprinting and reinstalling everything!
Absolutely thrilled to find such a well done and current article related to (disassembly) rebuilding the SR20 Part 1 however a little confused in your choice of a second topic in the series!
Our garage and assembly area are as near yours as possible, actually we are probable several pages ahead of you now however, my son and I are anxiously awaiting continuation into your thoughts and direction on blueprinting and reassembly.
Is there a planned date for moving forward?
Also waiting for this, looking at pulling my sr20 apart and found this to be a amazing first step but hesitant to go ahead without the rest of the information
This is a great thing, I think everyone feels this information is very valuable, thank you
Hey Nikita,
Just wanted to say thank you for this great information!! Im starting my build soon and was curious if you were planning on sharing the blueprint and build up of the engine..
Very nice write up. I’m about to look for this same for the reassembly as well.
love this , please continue with the reassembly and machining etc. the detail is second to none. Thanks
A little late to the game but have been following this article play by play while disassembling an SR20DET and has been very valuable. Have not been able to find the continuations of this project, has there been updates since 2018 – hopeful there are. If any users could share hyperlinks to blue printing, machine work, project reassembly that would be amazing. Thanks in advance for the assists!
What are the two bolt holes on the side of the front cover used for?