With the car idling and most of the core sensors configured, we needed to keep moving forward in our electronics configuration in order to get to a point where we could actually drive the car. Technically we could drive the car right now, but without a functional dashboard that wouldn’t be a very good idea – it’s kind of hard to drive with a laptop in your… lap.
The RaceCapture application is also what is used to configure the device. Our original intention was to put the RaceCapture/Pro MK2 between our dashboard and our ECU to massage information coming in via CAN and to retransmit it later. We will end up still running the ECU to the RaceCapture, but we will also run the ECU directly to the AEM CD-7 dash as well. We’ll get to that in a moment. The RaceCapture is also going to serve as our speedometer (via the GPS).
It has various gauge screens, tachometer screens, and other screens that can all be tailored to your needs. Newer RaceCapture models have Bluetooth and/or WiFi embedded. With the MK2 and a Bluetooth module, you can pair a tablet and use it as a dashboard. In our case, however, we’d be using the AEM CD-7 with the RaceCapture serving as our logger.
Just like with the Elite 2500 ECU and the Smartwire, the first thing we did was make sure we had upgraded to the latest RaceCapture firmware. The RaceCapture/Pro MK2 can actually be powered directly by our laptop’s USB, which can make things a little tricky when you are trying to power cycle the device and forget it’s still powered by the USB after you shut the car completely off.
The Autosport Labs RaceCapture can read whatever CAN channels you want. But you have to tell it which ones to care about. Tell the RCP what the baud rate (1M[egabit] for Haltech) is on which CAN channel (we’re using CAN bus #1 as the input from the Haltech) and then start configuring mappings.