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| We also used Performance Friction Z rated street brake pads. These pads have low dust and still perform well under hard driving conditions. |
21. Replace the rotor and replace the set screw.
22. Clean the caliper bracket, especially the grooves where the brake pad sits and remove all of the buildup. Use caliper grease or anti-seize to these grooves.
23. Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and the two 16mm bolts.
24. Install the inner pad with it’s clips to the inner bore of the caliper piston, and hang the outboard pad on the caliper bracket. If no clips are present, hang both inboard and outboard pads on the bracket. Reinstall the brake pad wear sensor.
25. Screw the caliper back onto the brake line and slip the caliper over the pads.
26. Grease and reinstall the caliper guide pins and replace the dust covers.
27. Replace the tension spring.
28. **TIGHTEN the brake line, torque all the caliper brackets and caliper bolts down.
29. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid and bleed the lines with the pattern: RR, LR, RF, LF.
30. Put the wheels on and tighten down the lug nuts.
Be sure to follow pad manufacturer’s instructions for proper bed-in procedures. You can greatly prolong pad and rotor life at the track if you do not aggressively use new race pads and new rotors simultaneously until they’ve both been “seasoned.”
There you have it. The brake calipers are rebuilt, with new pads and rotors. The job wasn’t too technical, but just requires some patience.
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