When I first installed the inverter it was simply hooking it to the appropriate positive and negative sources so that it had power. Then it was running an armoured wire (I chose armoured because it offers protection from road debris as this wire is exposed on the underside of the RV floor. Finding a suitable location with access from the bottom and access from within a cupboard up top for the wire to be fed through, I drilled a hole through the floor of the RV. I chose a cupboard so that the wire was hidden and then I could install the electrical outlet to the wall – just as one would in your home. Once the wire was in place, the opening in the floor was filled with foam insulation to stop air flow but also any critters that might decide to enlarge the opening so that they could come to visit. Then it was simply a matter of installing a typical home electrical box and outlet. I chose an outlet faceplate of a completely different colour so that it would be obvious to people that it was different. Everyone who uses the RV knows that this outlet is unique and active when the inverter is on. The other outlets are only active when the generator is running or when we are plugged into shore power (shore power does sound funny, but that term comes from the boating world and is also used in the RV world).
There are limitations with a 300 watt inverter. For example, most microwaves, hair dryers (on hot setting), and drip coffee makers require 3 to 4 times that much wattage. For our purposes, we can live without those devices. For a year we have run with this 300 watt pure wave setup and it is great for almost two days. I say almost because when the batteries run low then the inverter alarm sounds, the fridge alarm sounds, the CO2 alarm sounds, and all of Emmett’s medical devices sound their alarms. When that happens at 5 a.m., you know that your power supply is great for almost two days. Now I should also point out that in a normal setting without several pieces of medical grade equipment, this amount of power would be supported by this Group 27 batteries for twice as long if not more. We are a power intensive user when we go out with my grandson; but the joy on his face when he goes camping and exploring means that we will make it happen.
We have a Honda 2000 generator that we use when possible to charge up the batteries. Of course, almost every campground has regulated the hours that you can use a generator. This is absolutely understandable, even with a quiet generator it still disrupts the calm of nature that most campers are seeking. In the midst of this project and research, Kyle at Cottonwood RV in Chilliwack, B.C. has been an outstanding resource. One tip that I got from Kyle was that when charging the batteries with the generator, I was severely limiting the charge by using the RV house charging system. He advised me to use my automotive battery charger and have that hooked up directly to the battery. The reason being is the RV house charging system provides 3-5 amps per hour – this is not much more than some trickle chargers. Meanwhile, plugging an automotive battery charger into the generator will provide 15 or more amps per hour. Obviously this is going to help significantly.
Another step that we have taken is that we have added a 100 watt solar panel to our assortment of RV equipment. We got a Noma brand solar panel complete with a charge controller on sale at Canadian Tire (to my American readers and friends, when the border re-opens it’s worth a trip to Canada just to go to Canadian Tire. Shop ahead and plan your purchase, wait for a sale, and then take advantage of it. As great as this source of free power is, providing output of 5.5 amps, a huge drawback is that sun is required. The beautiful provincial parks that we have mentioned as our favourite camping spots are engulfed by massive trees and forests that block the sun thus limit the effectiveness of the solar power.
We have also replaced all of the interior lighting with LED bulbs. Over the last few years the cost of LED bulbs has come down and the range of what is available has hugely multiplied. This has resulted in a dramatic drop in the normal power requirements for the house, which means more power for the inverter and subsequently the equipment. While doing this I also replaced the ineffective RV porch light with two powerful LED porchlights – an added benefit is that it’s great for working on a car in the late hours of the evening at the track.
15 comments
I could feel the love in that article. That kid has the best Grandpa ever.
ERK, tons and tons of love. Not sure about the best Grandpa, but I certainly have the best Grandson! 🙂
Thank you!
Frank
I don’t have a camper… I’m not from Canada… I don’t have anyone in my life with a similar condition to Emmett… But I really enjoyed this article. Thank you.
Hi Jerry,
Glad you enjoyed it!
Frank
Incredible article! I don’t understand the innards of automotive repair, but after observing my brother’s love for car-racing for years at Mosport (now Canadian Tire Motorsport Park) in Ontario and then after his move to BC, his love for everything Emmett I can fully appreciate all 7 pages of this article! His love for car-racing, RV Camping and Grandson combined! I love my brother Frank and so proud of him and all his accomplishments!
Thank you, Janice. Love you too! I’m pretty sure that you’re going to get into car racing and track days sometime soon!
Great article! Its good to be reminded from time to time that our hobbies can mean so much more and that its important to enjoy life with those we love! Thank you!
One nit pick though: According to your diagram, if you put your battery switch into the “Both” position you are connecting you banks in parallel not series. In effect it turns both banks into one large 12v bank.
In the marine world this position is used to charge both battery banks with the alternator while the engine is running, then you can choose between the two banks when your docked or at anchor and the engine is no longer charging.
Functionally, this doesn’t change how you are currently using the switch, but if someone were to accidently set the switch to “both” you wouldn’t suddenly get a 24v surge that would damage any electrical components.
Joel, Thank you.
And thank you even more for your update on my battery switch. I’m going to be reaching out to you as you’re knowledge base on this is obviously way better than mine!
Frank
Love the article.. another vote for the greatest Grandpa!
Hi Adrian, Thank you and so glad you enjoyed the article!
Frank
Thought about running 6 volts?
Rockwood, 6 volt is absolutely a longer lasting battery. But two years ago when I bought a new set of house batteries my RV manufacturer recommended 12 volt. This was the manufacturer not the dealer. I didn’t have time to research so I just went with their recommendation. (I briefly comment on this on page 4). Too bad as 6 volt would have given much better life. And with this upgrade I wanted both banks to be the same, so 12 volt is what it had to be. When it comes time to replace all four, then I will probably go to a 6 volt solution.
Now you’re talking. No savvy sailboat guy would use anything but 6 volt golf cart deep cycle batteries. They work just as well in my RV, just don’t buy cheapies.
JD, if only I were a sailboat guy. I don’t even need to be a savvy one! Ha ha ha. I’ve certainly expanded my knowledge base over the years and 6 volt will be the next step. But only once I’ve used these up!
Given your use case, minimum of 4 batteries will be needed. Biggest bummer about 6v batteries is if one dies, you’re (you guessed it) stuck at 6v only.
A bunch of guys are experimenting with LiFePOs, but the danger of fire is waaaaaaay too high for me. Anyone who’s seen an RV fire live will agree. They go up FAST