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Once everything is stripped down, the stock camshafts are removed and the valve retainers are tapped down with a soft punch and a mallet to unstick the valve keepers. Each retainer is given a firm rap with the mallet.
Before removing the timing chain, put pins in the assembly holes of the chain tensioners. This will keep the tensioners retracted during the cam change procedure and make reassembly less difficult.
Next, the valve lifters are removed with a magnet. The valve lash is adjusted with different sized select fit lifters so make sure you take them out in and keep them in order so you can put them back exactly how they were in the head from the factory. Replace the lifters with the ones with a hole drilled in them to access the valve keepers. Bolt the JWT valve spring compressor to the head and pressurize the cylinder with air via a hose from a compression or leak down checker attached to a compressor. The compressed air holds the valves closed while you are changing the valve springs. If you don't have a compressor, you can use about 100 feet of smooth nylon rope through the plug hole then carefully turn the crank to raise the piston to smash the rope to the head, thus holding the valves up. This trick actually works really well! Of course leave the end of the rope out of the spark plug hole so you can pull it all out when you are done!
Compress the spring by turning the thumbscrew, then remove the keepers with a strong magnet. Pretty easy with the right tool. Reassemble by compressing the new springs then put the keepers back in. Give them a a light tap with a mallet before putting the lifter back to make sure they are seated properly.
Once the springs are changed, the new JWT cams are installed with the caps torqued correctly.
The JWT C2 cams have a lot of lift and the lobes barely clear the sides of the lifter bosses. JWT has more radical cams but they require that the lifter bosses be machined to clear the taller lobes. We didn't want to bother with all of that.
