We are replacing our original plug wires with NGK resistor wires. Resistor is sort of a misnomer here: these are shielded plug wires similar to coaxial cable. This is necessary to prevent electromagnetic radiation from interfering with the sensors in the EFI system. All plug wires on EFI cars are “resistor” wires. The terminology seems to be carried over from the pre-EFI days and has stuck.One of the really nice things about the NGK wires is they are numbered so it’s very difficult to get wires crossed up when reinstalling the distributor.For plugs, we went with NGK Iridium plugs. Part number DCPR7EIX is a direct fit for the Cappuccino in the correct heat range. Iridium plugs are a good upgrade for an older turbocharged car like the Cappuccino. Iridium is much harder than the nickel-plated copper plugs Suzuki would have installed in the 90s. The harder material means more heat resistance and less wear over time. The fine-tipped electrode is also more efficient, creating a hotter spark for the same voltage. Our Cappuccino came from Japan with a set of these plugs installed but they were pretty gross so we replaced them.Everything installs the opposite of removal. The Metro coil fits in the Cappuccino perfectly with zero modification needed. We noticed the Cappuccino started more readily with the refurbished ignition system. Also notice how we have stylishly matched our NGK plug wires with our intake tube, strut brace, intercooler hoses, and vacuum lines. We would be getting so many style points in Need For Speed Underground!The last item to check is the base ignition timing so the ECU knows where to time the ignition events. Since the ECU is constantly varying ignition timing, the timing needs to be locked so it can be read with a timing light. This is done by locating this service connector (next to the driver’s side strut tower) and shorting these two pins together with a piece of wire. The target is 4-6° BTDC. Ours was at 6° BTDC, so we left it alone.
Our Cappuccino is certainly faster sounding: the HPS intake has added to the induction noise and the Power Getter exhaust screams as we approach the 9,000 RPM redline. The improved flow of our intake, exhaust, and intercooler hoses has made the turbo spool just a hair quicker. Without dyno testing, it’s hard to say how much power we’ve really gained.
Fortunately, the aftermarket has come up with a nifty solution to this issue and we’ll be telling you all about it soon!
Duralast? Yuck. I wouldn’t count on any longevity out of that coil. Parts store brand stuff is awful quality in my experience unless something has recently changed. Looks like NGK and Delphi still supply coils for a 98 Metro for under $50. I’d go with one of those.
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This car is so cool. Thanks for the update.
Thank you! I’ve been enjoying learning all about this platform and I’m glad folks enjoy what I’ve put together.
What’s the part number for those NGK wires? I haven’t been able to find them anywhere. thx!!
RC-SE43. I actually found them on eBay if you can believe it. Search for EA11R plug wires
Awesome. 3 cyl motors sound a lot like straight 6’s the same way the inline 5s of RS3 and TTRS sound like their 10 cyl big brothers.
Duralast? Yuck. I wouldn’t count on any longevity out of that coil. Parts store brand stuff is awful quality in my experience unless something has recently changed. Looks like NGK and Delphi still supply coils for a 98 Metro for under $50. I’d go with one of those.