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If you are using any OEM parts, always check with your Factory Service Manual for clearances on those parts! Make sure you aren't starting with junk parts! |
Next after cleaning the block is checking clearances of your crank to determine if you can use standard engine bearings. The ideal way is to use micrometers and bore-gauges, but if you don't have those the only option is Plastigage. Plastigage is a soft plastic that gets squeezed as you torque the rod or main bolts down with your engine bearings in place. Once at the proper torque, take your bearings apart and check the clearances with the plastigage cover.
The Plastigage is the little green line on the crank surface. |
Another measurement you should take while you are checking the rod bearings is their side clearance. This ensures that your rods will not make any contact with the crankshaft. You should also check the crankshaft by turning it as you torque the main bolts down. If you have a hard time turning it without the pistons in it, you have a problem!
Checking the side clearance of the rod on the crankshaft. | |
Here I am using Plastigage to check rod bearing clearance. |
With my engine at proper clearances, I use Sealed Power bearings in the standard sizing. I also coat the bearing surfaces with engine assembly lube. This will ensure that there is little chance there will be a dry start, which will damage the engine. Next I move on to checking bore clearance, this ensures that there is proper room for the pistons to increase in size as they heat up.
My Federal-Mogul Sealed Power crankshaft bearings in the crank girdle. |
Oh, the fun is JUST starting! |
3 comments
Is this project dead? Any word on an update? KA24DE fanatics gotta know.
Yes, it’s dead.
How much would it cost to build a ka24de with 400 hp.