Next, we mounted the 36-1 nickel plated Full Function Engineering trigger wheel. This will give our ECU far more resolution at high RPM, which is crucial for timing accuracy. Our engine will see upward of 9-10,000rpm, so upgrading the trigger wheel is very important.
To finish the install, we re-mounted the Raceonly billet crank pulley.
With the engine bolted up to our dressed longblock, we were finally ready to install our drivetrain into the car.
We were very happy with the quality and look of our DC Power 180 amp alternator, Raceonly billet pulleys, and Full Function Engineering idler pulley and Trigger Hall sensor setup. Our engine will now have the electrical current needed from the alternator, the reliability and performance of the billet pulleys, and the crank position accuracy of the hall trigger setup. We were excited to get this engine installed and running!
Stay tuned for the next installment.
8 comments
Looks so good! This article told me that my alternator on my Subaru EJ is kind of tired. pushing out high 13s voltage only.
Billy, this build is going to be epic. We all can’t wait to see it on track!
I’m surprised no special crank damper like an ATI or Fluidamper, any particular reason why?
Rotaries don’t require dampers.
Correct, they do not.
The “no name” brand pulley is GReddy. One of the first under drive pulley sets to come out for the FD in the late 90s.
Thank you 🙂
Does the trigger wheel work with the Apexi power fc ecu? Been a while since I’ve worked on the car and have forgotten more than half when I was knee deep into the FD 10+ years ago.