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This is $325 worth of fittings that could save your life or prevent a fire.
Dry-break fittings have been around for a while. In this particular instance, we are using a quick-disconnect dry-break fitting that is actuated by a tether. Yes, it’s expensive. But I value my life and my safety, so I’m willing to go this extra mile. In the background you can see our plans for the plumbing of the fuel system.
If the engine ever leaves the car, fuel flow is stopped by the dry-break.
The tether is attached to the car, and the fitting is mounted to the engine. If the engine ever leaves the car (let’s hope it doesn’t), the tether will dry-break the hose and prevent fuel from flowing. This helps prevent the possibility that, in a serious wreck, the battery/ECU could still power the fuel pump with an open hose spewing fuel on a hot motor. Once the dry-break is separated, even if the pump is on, no additional fuel can be pumped out. Ideally we would also have a dry-break setup on the return, but even this is far safer than most cars out there.
There is a lot of fuel line on a car that is 16 feet long.
A combination of pop-riveted zip tie stands and P-clamps were used to mount the fuel line. Since zip ties are not designed to be permanent, relatively frequent inspection will be important. You do nut-and-bolt your car after every event, don’t you? If you said “no”, seriously ponder the beating your car takes on the track – and all the vibrations that it’s subjected to. Now, reconsider your decision. Eventually everything will utilize rubberized P-clamps.
The engine plumbing is all done.
We used an -AN block-off on the other side of the regulator temporarily. In the future this will be replaced with a short length of tube leading to a fuel pressure sensor that will go into the data logger and ECU. Every single fitting was replaced in the process of plumbing the system, including the previously-used -ANs on the fuel rail and old FPR, as well as the ghetto banjo with the wrong bolt. Just like with the sway bar bracket, a diagram and plan was made that indicated the bends (90, 45, etc) and hose lengths before any parts were ordered.
Here’s the final plumbed cell with the Fuelab 84831 filter.
At this point the cell is completely plumbed with fuel supply, filtration and return. The only thing left is to fabricate the filling assembly and install a vent tube. It’s all starting to look like a real race car! Well, except for being so dirty.
