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| This is a close-up of the toothed wheels on the ends of the camshafts. The wheel requiring replacement is on the exhaust cam in the background. |
The difficult task was getting to the toothed wheel on the crank. First, the air box had to come out. Then the removal of the belt and water pump pulley. Now came the major pain-in-the-butt part of removing the crank pulley. It took two guys pushing and pulling an about 2-3 feet worth of breaker bar to break the bolt loose. All I can say is thank goodness I didn’t try this myself in my garage and that I took it to the guys at Church Automotive; I would probably still be cursing at it.
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| You will need this crank pulley removal tool. It holds the pulley in place allowing you to use all your strength (or of two guys) to bust the bolt loose. |
After this tough obstacle was overcome, the next difficulty came in removing the front timing cover as it is sandwiched between the head and oil pan. After a few attempts to pry it out, it was decided to remove the oil pan which also necessitated the removal of my Whiteline subframe brace and the stock brace. Again, thank goodness I didn’t try this myself in my garage and that I took it to the guys at Church Automotive; I would probably still be cursing at it after taking a month to remove the crank pulley.
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| A whole lot of work is required to get to that toothed wheel on the crankshaft. |
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| There looks to be about 1/8th of a quart of oil left in the pan after draining. |
