You want to be able to service harnesses and so instead of a “home run” directly from the Racepak into the relay holder, I added a small DTM-2 connector.
Well, you can see it’s a DTM-4. I had actually run out of Deutsch shells, so I harvested a 4-pin connector off of the harness that had come with my AEM CD-7 digital dash. I had the mating side already, and I had plenty of pins and sockets, so this would do for now. Remember, this was a hurried hackjob.
Anyway, a couple of splices would allow power to go from the Racepak to the coil and to the blower (on the power side). And a couple of splices would allow the ground to come back from the blower and from the coil and directly to the chassis ground where the battery negative terminal was attached. Glue line heat shrink keeps things nice and tidy and provides some protection.
It pains me for it to look this way, but it works. I did my best to zip tie things in a way that they would be strain relieved and not jiggle around too much. The relay holder conveniently is bolted to a hole in the chassis that was already tapped for a 10mm-head bolt. It doesn’t look that pretty, but it’s safe… enough… for now.
I think.
The picture makes the ducting look worse than it is. There’s really not a lot of extra, it just looks like it’s at an awkward angle.
According to the folks there, you can dilute the coolant formula by up to 50% and it will still work great. You end up losing a little bit here and there due to dribbles when you connect and disconnect things, so, eventually, you’ll need to refill the system.
With everything wired, installed, ducted, and double-checked, it was time to fill the system with coolant, connect the priming tube, and throw the switch.
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That’s cool, but not $2500 cool. Damn! The collective sum of all my winter upgrades will come in comfortably south of that. Hopefully the price comes down as the tech matures.