Project SC300 Road Racer: Part 32- Getting sequentially better with S1
attempting to slide sequential shift adapter into position on the transmission tunnel
Now it was time to install the…!

No, it wouldn’t be time to install anything. You see, installing the shifter adapter onto the transmission involves a little bit of 3D calculus. There’s a small ball on the reverse arm on the shifter adapter that has to go in the slot you saw earlier. There’s also a little post on the shifter adapter that has to go in the hole on the transmission arm’s adapter block (the blue thing). To do both of those things simultaneously, the shifter adapter has to start forward and then slide backward.

But the transmission tunnel was still in the way.

At the back of the hole, you can see a square machined block attached to the shifter adapter. That, too, was going to hit the tunnel.

Time for a more more giant hole. Cue sad trombone.

 

black racer tape covering the opening of the transmission
Since there was basically a gaping opening right into the guts of the transmission due to the T56’s original shifter being removed, the opening was taped closed to prevent metal shavings from getting down into the transmission.

And then there was cutting.

 

very large opening in transmission tunnel
OK, now the hole is big enough!

I hope.

 

placing a thin metal gasket onto opening of transmission
The thin metal gasket was put into place again, and then the shifter was installed… again.

 

viewing the sequential shift adapter installed on transmission
A little bit of this, a little bit of that, and some extra cutting to add a notch to allow the gear position sensor to fit, and we had the adapter attached to the transmission!

You can also see the neat, optional, Delrin shift lever that you can get from S1. Sure, that shiny aluminum shifter might look fancy, but holy hell, would it get hot in the sun in the summer. The Delrin unit is going to heat up much less, and it weighs less, too.

It even has a cute + and – machined into the top of it, but you’ll probably spend an hour trying to clock the various studs and threads that attach everything so that the + and – go in the right direction (+ should be on the bottom). I gave up, and mine is just backward. Because Damnit.

12 comments

    1. If you subscribe to my personal YouTube channel I’ll have video from Carolina Motorsports Park where I was beating it up a good bit. Even ended up mowing the lawn at some point! I ran 1:48 which is almost 9sec off the TT2 pace, but this is the first real experiment on the car and my first time at CMP in over a decade. I’ve got a lot to learn about the corner speed limits of the car. Looking at my data it’s basically “yeah just go faster everywhere”. Ha!

  1. Awesome! Those shifters look like so much fun. The date on the vid os wrong? It says 2010. I will check out your You tube.

  2. I’ve driven that shifter before and you really can’t rush a shift with it. My friend wallered one out after a couple of race seasons and it began to miss gears, I think there’s a lot of leverage working against it. That and once worn, I think the housing grows with heat and makes it worse. I had the B&M and it sucked when it heated up. I love my new MGW and don’t see myself running anything else now.

    1. I noticed that the shifter assembly was pretty warm after a session, but I’m also not running a transmission fluid cooler.

      The MGW looks nice, but it’s a standard H-pattern and not a sequential. I didn’t really have any issue with the factory Tremec shifter, other than I really wanted a teeny tiny short handle. That Hurst handle I had was pretty good, but I would’ve liked something even shorter. The THROW wasn’t the problem. It was more the shift handle length.

      We’ll see how the S1 holds up after time. My only issue with it is more user error than a problem with the shifter. For whatever reason, I tend not to push it forward enough, so I end up not fully engaging the next gear down. It’s not really a big deal — just something I need to work on or perhaps adjust the shifter angle a bit more.

      1. The shifter sort of has 2 clunks to grab a gear, don’t let the first one fool you. It can be pretty convincing. I’ve found with the MGW that reverse is an asspain to grab, so if this doesn’t do it for you long term consider the MGW as an alternative to not grabbing reverse when you want 5th. I did that years ago to another T56 with a worn out stock shifter and reverse was never the same after that.

  3. Great article, this Soarer content is always so interesting to read. Great vocab too, automotive project car stories can often fall into “catalogue details” faster than the wonders of gearbox black magic. 10/10

  4. is there a difference between a sequential trans and a sequential shift trans? reason I ask is because I had a chance to get an “ikeya sequential shifter” for cheap but a friend poo-pooed it saying that is not a real sequential trans –can anyone shed some light on the subject

    1. Yes, and no, and kind of. Context matters.

      In the case of the S1, Ikeya, and other adapters, you are attaching a sequential shifter assembly to an otherwise normal tranmission. So, while the activation of gears becomes sequential (you can only select the next or previous gear, “sequentially”), the clutch is still required in order to keep the other parts of the transmission happy (namely the synchronizers on the transmission gears).

      A true sequential transmission usually has an internal construction that allows for changing gears without needing to disengage the engine from the transmission via the clutch. A true sequential transmission may use either a physical shift lever (like V8 Supercar a few years back, late 90s BTCC, old DTM, etc) or shift paddles on the steering wheel.

      Sequential transmissions may, but don’t have to be, integrated into the engine management system to handle things like rev matching. They often still have a clutch for starting from a dead stop, but the clutch is not required for switching gears once moving.

      Where it gets funky is in modern dual-clutch transmissions and automated manual transmissions. I think the Volkswagen-Audi group DSG may have been one of the first “passenger” units on the dual-clutch side, and BMW with the SMG on the E46 M3… maybe.

      In the case of the dual-clutch unit, it is much like a regular manual inside, but there are two clutches and two input shafts and a computer that controls how things work. While the experience is sequential (use a paddle or push/pull on the shifter to get the next gear), there are still clutches and synchros inside. The BMW SMG more or less used a computer to actuate the regular single clutch. These systems may or may not have a clutch pedal at all, as the computers do all of the work, including starting from a dead stop.

      I hope this helps!

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