After taking some time off to paint our brake booster and all our fabricated brackets, we can install the engine for the final time! We decided to install it through the bottom to avoid scratching our beautiful new paint since it’s a bit of a tight fit. We started by placing the engine on the subframe and bolting in the motor mounts. We jacked up the car as high as the jack stands would go and slowly rolled the whole subframe assembly in. As we explained in the last installment, the driveshaft can only be installed by sliding the engine into the yoke. This means we had to install the driveshaft now, before the engine is in it’s final position.
You may also remember in part 4, we had to take the driveshaft back to the driveshaft shop because the pinion flange bolt pattern was wrong. Well, they made us a new driveshaft, however, when we went to install it, the pinion flange fit but it wouldn’t sit flush. It turns out, for whatever reason, the centering lip on our new flange was too long preventing the flange from sitting all the way flush.
Tired of wasting time dealing with driveshaft shops, we snuck into our friends machine shop after hours and milled off part of the centering flange. We also picked up some new hardware for the driveshaft as well as nord-lock washers to prevent the bolts from coming loose with vibration. We opted for zinc-coated 10.9 grade hardware for corrosion resistance and to allow us to achieve higher torque. The bolt is actually an M10-1.5 x 30mm FLANGE bolt. After taking measurements, we found that it’s impossible to fit a 17mm wrench on the bolt thanks to the added thickness of the new driveshaft, so we opted to use flange bolts since flange bolts have a smaller hex size (15mm in this case). After machining the centering lip down, we were finally able to bolt the driveshaft in with all new hardware.