Project SR E30: Part 5 – Installing the SR20Posted on August 12, 2018August 13, 2018byNikita RushmanovThe shaft length is now identical to factory! Just keep in mind that we are comparing the distance from the firewall mounting point to the tip of the shaft. The VW Fox booster is obviously skinnier, that’s the whole point.Since we just made actuator shaft threads bigger, we have to do the same to the clevis. We begin by drilling out the clevis threads.Next, we tapped the clevis to 7/16-20.And voila! Such a simple solution!Before we can install the brake booster, we need to swap out the pedal box. This E30 was originally an automatic, so we picked up this manual E30 pedal box off craigslist and installed it.We test fit the new brake booster and the old master cylinder.And good news! The clevis fits perfectly!We also installed the ABS module with all of the brake lines. We took lots of reference pictures before removing it since the all the lines can get confusing.RelatedPrevious page 1 2 3 4 5Next pageRelated TopicsbrakesDriveshaft and Axle Previous Article UncategorizedProAm Drifters Compete for their FD PRO2 Licenses at Rd. 2 of The Drift LeaguePosted on August 9, 2018August 9, 2018byRathyna GomerView Post Next Article Porsche991 GT3RSProjectsPorsche 911 GT3 RS tuning for 500 WHPPosted on August 13, 2018September 10, 2018byMike KojimaView Post 9 commentsLove this series, great read and excellent photographs!ReplyHey just a heads up: when using a bolt and nut with Nord-Lock washers, you require a Nord-Lock washer on the bolt and the nut. There was a video posted up by the Nord-Lock group explaining how and when to use their washers. Looks like you only have one on the nut.ReplyWow, good catch! You’re absolutely right. We need to fix that.ReplyAre there any special considerations for using a brake booster from and NA on a turbo car? I’m finding very little information on this topic. I’m installing a B210 brake booster on my 4G63 turbo swapped Datsun 510. Although this booster swap seems common in the 510 world, very few people have information to share about making it “turbo safe”.ReplyThere is no difference between a turbo and non-turbo brake booster as far as I understand it.ReplyAs long as there’s a check valve to prevent boost from entering, you’re fine.Replyreally nice work guys!! Techline coatings makes a really effective coating for manifolds.. The effect is two fold. You’ll get about 100 degree drop in temp off the surface of the manifold and increase velocity of gases and aid throttle response. Also, the gold isn’t very effective. The silver heat reduction material :DEI heat shielding….is much more effective. So you would coat all you manifolds, Turbo housing (hot side) and if you want to get fancy you would coat all the parts you want to keep cool in their thermal dispersant coatings to shed heat. There stuff really work.. I’ve used them .. No affiliation what so everReplyThanks for the advice, we will definitely look into that. Currently we were planning on using DEI’s Form-a-Shield thermal barrier to help protect the brake master.ReplyAfter all air is a great insulator and the DEI shield integrates air into its physical shapeReplyLeave a Reply Cancel replyYour email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * Your Comment *Name *Email *Website Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email.