Project SR E30: Part 5 – Installing the SR20
Purple SR20 valve cover
We also painted the valve cover to match engine bay.

The SR is now all ready to be installed. However, before we can do that, we have some things we must to take care of.

First, the steering linkage. Since the turbo outlet elbow runs so close to the steering linkage, the factory rubber steering linkage bushing has zero chance of survival. To remedy this we decided to install a solid aluminum bushing.

Removing BMW E30 steering linkage bushing rivets
The factory bushing is riveted in. In order to remove it we had to cut the rivet heads off.
Installing BMW E30 aluminum steering linkage bushing
The new aluminum bushing uses bolts on the other hand. We simply bolted it in place.

You may recall in part 1 of this series that we ended up using a VW Fox brake booster from a junkyard to make the engine fit. Well, that junk yard booster was very, very bad. We ended up using it as a core and got a re-manufactured booster. We also never actually made the linkage work, so we need to do that before we install the engine since it’s impossible to install or remove the brake booster with the engine in.

Brake booster with a die on it
The core of the problem is that the actuator rod on this brake booster is way too long. After a lot of brain storming, we measured the diameter of the shaft behind the threads. That shaft diameter ended up being just barely in range for a 7/16-20 thread! We bought a 7/16-20 tap and die set and went to town.
Tapping brake booster shaft
The brake booster actuator shaft is actually free spinning, which made it tricky to tap. We actually ended up putting the stock clevis on with a jam-nut so that we could use it to hold the shaft still while tapping.
Cutting off brake booster actuator shaft
After threading the whole shaft, we used an angle grinder to cut it to the right length.
Brake booster actuator shaft with die left on it
We left the die on the shaft while cutting so that we could remove the burrs created by the angle grinder.


  1. Hey just a heads up: when using a bolt and nut with Nord-Lock washers, you require a Nord-Lock washer on the bolt and the nut. There was a video posted up by the Nord-Lock group explaining how and when to use their washers. Looks like you only have one on the nut.

  2. Are there any special considerations for using a brake booster from and NA on a turbo car? I’m finding very little information on this topic. I’m installing a B210 brake booster on my 4G63 turbo swapped Datsun 510. Although this booster swap seems common in the 510 world, very few people have information to share about making it “turbo safe”.

  3. really nice work guys!! Techline coatings makes a really effective coating for manifolds.. The effect is two fold. You’ll get about 100 degree drop in temp off the surface of the manifold and increase velocity of gases and aid throttle response. Also, the gold isn’t very effective. The silver heat reduction material :DEI heat shielding….is much more effective. So you would coat all you manifolds, Turbo housing (hot side) and if you want to get fancy you would coat all the parts you want to keep cool in their thermal dispersant coatings to shed heat. There stuff really work.. I’ve used them .. No affiliation what so ever

    1. Thanks for the advice, we will definitely look into that. Currently we were planning on using DEI’s Form-a-Shield thermal barrier to help protect the brake master.

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