Project Viper: Part 14 – Maintenance: Swaybar Bushings, Ball Joints and Boots

Time takes its toll on rubber. We replace the old and hardened swaybar bushings, ball joints, and boots on our low-mileage 1997 Viper.

As we mentioned in Part 12, it’s not just mileage but age that affects fluids and rubber components in a car.  Our Viper has less than 10,000 miles and most of the rubber bushings in the car are completely shot.

Viper Front Swaybar End LinkThe front swaybar endlink boot is completely destroyed from age alone.  This car has lived in a climate-controlled environment and has not seen high brake temps from any track use.

Viper Sway Bar End Link and Balljoint BootThe lower swaybar end link is equally as destroyed.  The lower control arm outer ball joint boot is also cracked and leaking grease.

Viper GTS font brakes removed and tie rod removedThe boots in the tie-rod ends are also cracked completely though.

Viper GTS 1997 Tie Rod BootsTo replace all of these components, we removed the brake rotor and caliper, then the tie rod end.

Viper GTS remove knuckleNext, we needed to remove the upright/knuckle itself.  We loosened the upper control arm ball joint nut, then used a pickle-fork to remove the ball joint from the upright.  We did the same for the lower control arm ball joint.

8 comments

  1. Amazing how much new sway bar bushings and links can improve limit handling and on center feel. Especially on old cars that get driven hard!

  2. Is NanoPro MT Marine Grease safe to use on rubber? I’m not the best with grease chemistry, but my understanding is if it’s petroleum based, you shouldn’t be using it on rubber.

    Great article and a good reminder to people that time take its toll on cars, even if they’re hardly driven.

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