S2000 BRAKE LINES AND BRAKE FLUID

S2000 PROJECT MU G-FOUR 335 RACING BRAKE FLUID 

The Project Mu G-Four 335 racing brake fluid is designed to withstand ultra-high temperatures and has a dry boiling point of 335ºC (635ºF) and wet boiling point of 221ºC (430ºF), exceeding many competing brake fluids on the market. This brake fluid is recommended for both competition and street use, perfect for our weekend track car.  To ensure we don’t mix new and old fluids, we will completely flush our brake system with 2 bottles.

What is the difference between Dry Boiling Point and Wet Boiling Point?  Dry Boiling Point is the boiling temperature of fresh brake fluid straight from the bottle, while Wet Boiling Point is brake fluid that has absorbed 3.7% water by volume on average over a 2-year period.  You should flush your brake fluid every 1-2 years.  Luckily, the Project Mu G-four 335 brake fluid will change its color from green to clear over time or if it reaches close to 300ºC, indicating it’s time for a brake fluid flush.

S2000 BRAKE LINE INSTALL

We freed the front brake line from the two brake line mounts with a 12mm socket and ratchet.  There is 1 mount on the body of the OEM shocks or some coilovers and 1 mount on the brake assembly next to the caliper.  We used a 14mm socket and ratchet removing the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.  We then used a 10mm flare nut wrench to loosen the hard brake line from the rubber brake line mounted on the chassis and pulled off the brake line clip to disconnect the two lines.  We inserted the new HEL front brake line in reverse order.  Connected the hard line coming from the chassis and the new HEL stainless steel line by tightening it with a 17mm wrench on the new HEL stainless steel lines and a 10mm wrench on the hard line then securing it to the bracket with the brake line clip.  Fasten the opposing end of the HEL line vertically between the notches on the caliper and fasten the Banjo fitting to the front calipers securing it with the supplied copper crush washer, and threading in the banjo bolt.  We then secured the integrated mounting bracket to the brake assembly.  Our coilover did not come with brake line brackets so we left that portion open.

Like the fronts, we used a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the parking brake cover.  Using a 10mm socket and ratchet, we removed the two bolts holding the brake line mounts to free up the brake lines.  We used a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.  We used a 10mm flare nut wrench to loosen the hard brake line from the rubber brake line mounted on the chassis and pulled off the brake line clip to disconnect the two lines.  We inserted the new HEL rear brake line in reverse order.  We connected the hard line coming from the chassis and the new HEL stainless steel line by tightening it with a 17mm wrench on the new HEL stainless steel lines and a 10mm wrench on the hard line then securing it to the bracket with the brake line clip.  Fasten the opposing end of the HEL line vertically between the notches on the caliper and fasten the Banjo fitting to the rear calipers securing it with the supplied copper crush washer, and threading in the banjo bolt.  We then secured the integrated mounting bracket to the brake assembly.   We made sure to spray everything down with brake cleaner after we were done.

Although we flushed the old brake fluid out until it bled green, we decided to fully flush it with 2 bottles to ensure any prior oils were removed from the system.  Throughout the bleeding process, we periodically checked the fittings to ensure there were no leaks.  After driving the S2000 around a bit, I checked for any additional leaks and found none.

TODA “TORQUIE-KUN” EXHAUST MANIFOLD

While we covered quite a bit on Brake lines and fluid, we added another treat to the S2000.   We got our hands on a TODA “TORQUIE-KUN” 4-2-1 style exhaust manifold.  This is the second version of exhaust manifolds coming from TODA for the S2000, designed to add more mid-range torque and horsepower with minimal sacrifice to top-end power.  It includes an auxiliary oxygen sensor port, enabling precise tuning of engine management systems and fuel control devices.

While we didn’t get to test it on the dyno for exact results, the butt dyno could surely tell there was an increase in torque at the bottom end, with the S2000 feeling quicker off the line from daily driving.   Thanks to Formula S for helping with the installation.